Thursday, 24th July, 1828
I left Brisbane Town at nine o’clock 24th July, accompanied by Mr. Cunningham (Botanist from Kew Gardens) and Mr. Frazer (Colonial Botanist) on a tour to the Logan, with the intention of returning by the gap in the dividing range, and thence by the river Bremer to the settlement. Proceeded by the edge of Cowper’s Plains, and crossed Canoe Creek, a short distance above the influence of the tide. Latitude at noon on the ponds at edge of Cowper’s Plains, 27° 33′ 37″; ditto at tent on Canoe Creek, 27° 36′; longitude, 153° 3′ E.; variation, 9° 34′ by Azim.
Friday, 25th July, 1828
Proceeded about three miles on the west side of the Creek at first S 10 E., but from the winding of its course, we were obliged to keep a little to the westward, and ultimately to re-cross the Creek. After we left the Creek the country became sandy, gently undulating, and intersected by tea tree swamps. This description extends, with very little variation, from Canoe Creek to the river Logan. Distance, by admeasurement, 10 miles 190 yards; [reduced], 187 8 S. 8 E.; latitude at noon not observed; by Azim. at tent evening, 27° 44′; longitude, by admeasurement, 153° 5′ East.
Saturday, 26th July, 1828
Again set forward, and after four miles walk reached the Logan, which, after some little difficulty, we crossed with the bullocks. Found the latitude by observation 27° 48′ 14.” The country considerably improved, though still sandy. In consequence of some delay from Mr. Cunningham endeavouring again to cross the river, we only gained one mile and a-half after crossing. Distance, by observation, 81⁄2 miles; 6 mile reduced South, 26 East;188 latitude, at noon, 27° 48′ 14″ South; at 1 [p.m.], 27° 49′ 30″ South; longitude, 153° 3′ 30″.
Sunday, 27th July, 1828
The soil a good brown loam; the face of the country beautifully undulating. On leaving the bank of the river it again became sandy. Intersected two dry Creeks, and came to a pine brush, which obliged the party to keep to the east and ascend Birnam range. Towards evening we were obliged to alter our course to the north 189 to regain the valley. We halted on the summit of a hill, and after some difficulty found water. This range is good soil, and we here found a remarkable specimen of [silex], of which the natives make axes and other weapons. Distance, by admeasurement, 83 miles; reduced, 51⁄2 South, 4 West;190 latitude, at noon, 27° 52′ 38″ South; longitude, 153° 2′ 30′′ East.
Monday, 28th July, 1828
Descended the range in a north-west191 direction, and after two miles walk, got into the vale of Erris, and resumed a southerly course, the soil a rich brown loam, and the country beautifully undulating; crossed a beautiful plain, one half mile in width, and one and a-half or two miles in length, called “Letitia Plains,” High Peak – [bore. . .].192 After proceeding about one and a-half mile further, came to some large ponds. On the banks of the river found the latitude 27° 56′ 5″. In the afternoon our route was interrupted by a Creek, having its banks covered with viney brush; we, therefore, crossed to the west side of the river, and halted for the night. The country to the west of the river is here thinly wooded, and excellent rich soil. Distance, by admeasurement, 8 miles; reduced, 5 South 12 West; latitude, at noon, 27° 56′ 5″ South, [at tent], 27° 58′; longitude, 153°. Observed next day. Variation, ob. 8° 38′ E.
Tuesday, 29th July, 1828
Remained encamped, in consequence of rain.
Wednesday, 30th July, 1828
Again set forward; the country exceedingly rich; a large plain on our right. High Peak bore [?] and the rich flat country appeared to extend nearly to its base. After proceeding some time, [we crossed] a low ridge in the parallel of 28°, which approached the river, the point of which was named “Dunsinane Hill.” To the south of the ridge, a brook, from west, supposed to be the Teviot, unites with the Logan. The vale again extends to about six miles in width, and presented a magnificent appearance, and after some distance again contracts to about three miles, thus dividing the valley into convenient districts or wards. We stopped at 3 o’clock at the foot of a conical shaped hill, situated on the west [bank] of the river. From its commanding an extensive view of the valley, it was named Mount Look-out. Distance, by observation, 9 miles 7 furlongs, reduced, 8 South, 14 West; latitude, noon, 28° 2′ 19′′, [at tent] 28° 6′; longitude, 152° 57′. Bearings from Mount Look-out: – Mount Lindsey, South 20° West; Mount Hooker, South 9° West; Mount Edgar, South.
Thursday, 31st July, 1828
On commencing this day’s journey, I left the party and ascended Mount Edgar, on the west side of the valley; from this I had an extensive view to the north. [Glenmorriston] range bears N. 5° W., and [Box]-hill North, Mount French W. 10°S. Our course, leaving the river to the east, was rather hilly, but occasionally crossed rich valleys, and the hills were good pasturage. Towards evening we came on the river, and passed a small plain, on which were grazing about eight or ten Emus. We halted on the banks of the river. Distance, by observation, 11 miles; reduced, 103 South, 12 West; latitude, noon, 28° 10′ 9′′ – tent, 28° 12′; longitude, 152° 54′ 30′′.
Friday, 1st August, 1828
We crossed the Logan about one mile from last night’s encampment, and proceeded up Glen Lyons, but meeting with a viney brush, at 12 o’clock the party were obliged to return to the river. I ascended a high range, and found that there was no passage for bullocks except the valley of the Logan; the country was hilly, but the soil is excellent. The banks of the river and creeks were well stocked with red cedar and chesnuts; the latter were in abundance, and appear to be a considerable article of provision to the natives. Distance, by observation, 5 miles 3 furlongs; reduced, 23 West, 15 South; latitude, noon, not observed; tent, 28° 15′; longitude, 152° 51′.
Saturday, 2nd August, 1828
Proceeded up the valley of the Logan for two miles, and then ascended a ridge to the east, which brought us to the valley in front of Mount [Lyndsey]. After setting up the tents, we proceeded to reconnoitre the mountain, with the view of ascending next day: and as on a former occasion I had been un- successful on the north and west sides, I determined to make an attempt on the east. Distance, by [observation], 6 miles 3 furlongs; reduced, 4; latitude, at noon, 28° 16′; in tent, 28° 15′; longitude, 152° 47′.
Sunday, 3rd August, 1828
Started at sunrise, and after two miles walk up the valley, commenced the ascent seven minutes past 7 o’clock, and, after considerable difficulty, I succeeded in reaching the summit at 12 o’clock: the rest of the party failed in the attempt. Mount Warning bore E. 3° S., distant about 30 miles. To the South-West I discovered a beautiful and extensive country, with a river meandering from the South-West, and bending its course to the coast line South-East by South, through some extensive plains. The country, as far as the eye could reach to the South and South-West, was beautifully diversified with plains and moderate hills, many of them rising in the form of a cone, gave a picturesque effect to the scene; and there appeared to be a pass from the valley of the Logan by the base of Mount Hooker. Bearings from Mount [Lyndsey]: – Mount Warning, East 3° South; High Peak, North; Lake, or Lagoon, South-West by South; [Glenmorriston] Range, North 3° East; [Box] Hill, North 6° East; Bearings from tent, Mount [Lyndsey], South 52 1⁄2°, West 3 miles; longitude, 152° 45′ East.
Monday, 6th August, 1828
Again set forward and soon came into a fine valley, through which flows a brook, running into the Logan, and rises behind Mount Shadforth. The route then became hilly; and about sunset we arrived on the Teviot, and encamped under Minto Crags, on the same spot where I stopped on the 11th June, 1827, accompanied by Lieutenant Innis, 39th Regiment. Distance, 11 miles; reduced, 9 West, 17 North. Latitude at noon, 28° 9′; do. tent, 28° 8′; Longitude, 152° 38′ 30″.
Tuesday, 7th August, 1828
The cattle being astray, we did not begin the day’s work till 10 o’clock, and kept westerly to make the gap, but on account of pine [brushes], we were obliged to descend into [Dulhunty’s] Plain, and encamped, with a view of exploring a passage. I ascended a mountain, and found it would be necessary to go still farther east, and get round Mount French. Distance, by [observation] 51⁄2 miles; reduced 41. Latitude, noon, 28° 4′ 26″; tent, 28° 3′; Longitude, 152° 38″; variation, 10° 3′ 30″.
Wednesday, 8th August, 1828
Left [Dulhunty’s] Plains, and steered S. East in the Valley of the Esk, which passed through a beautiful plain, which was named [Rattray’s] Plain, having Mount French on the left, and a low range on the right, which separates the Esk and Teviot. Our course was S. East.205 Through the day the country beautiful and the soil excellent. Distance, by observation, 10 miles; reduced, 93 North, 57 East. Latitude at noon, 28° 01′ 13″; do. tent, 27° 58′.
Thursday, 9th August, 1828
Set out again, and as we could not get a passage into the valley of the Bremer, we were obliged to continue N. E. towards the vale of Erris. The brooks expanded into reaches of considerable size. Towards evening the soil became sandy, somewhat resembling the country between Canoe Creek and the Logan. Distance, 10 miles; reduced 73 E., 34 North. Latitude at noon, 27° 55′ 41′′; tent, 27° 54′; Longitude, 152° 47′ 30″.