WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 22nd
The weather continues very warm and sultry. I gave up the idea of taking the boats any further up the river, which indeed could not be effected in the present very low and depressed state of the stream without immense difficulty. The whole country bears the marks of extreme drought, and I should judge it must have been many months since rain had fallen – at least, of any consequence. Leaving the tent, accompanied by Mr. Butler, I ascended a lofty conical hill about four miles north from the tent, having a rocky summit, from which I expected an extensive prospect. My expectations were not disappointed. A more magnificent view it has not often fallen to my lot to behold. The whole country to the south was before me, bounded by the noble range which extends about W.N.W. from the Coast Range of Mount Warning, a lofty peak in which reared its head high above the surrounding mountains in the extreme southern distance, bearing N. 191°, distant 50 or 60 miles, possibly more, from whence, gradually becoming less broken and elevated, was apparently lost in the lower and nearer ridges of forest hills, bearing nearly W. by S., and distant 25 or 30 miles, a broken hilly country, covered with pine forests intervening. From west 22° south round to west 56° north, I saw no remarkable or distant mountains, the country being hilly and broken. My situation was quite sufficiently elevated to have seen any ranges or points of ranges, had they existed, at all comparable with the grand Western range or Mount Warning. The hills in this quarter might be generally considered as very thinly timbered, with the exception of some very extensive pine forests, to the S.W. by W. and W. by N. The most attentive consideration of the formation of the country, the direction and termination of the principal ranges all tended to strengthen my long formed opinion that this river communicates with the waters of the Western interior, through certainly by no navigable channel. A very remarkable hill, conical, with a flat top, covered with pines, bore N. 210°, about 30 miles, I named Mount Forbes, and another under the Great Western Range, distant about 45 miles, and bearing N. 196°, I named Mt. Bannister. Flinders Peak bore N. 169°, about 20 miles.
The Southern range of mountains before mentioned appeared to have a stream of water washing its northern base, as a chain of fires of the natives could be distinctly traced nearly 40 miles to the East, and it may probably be ultimately found to be the Tweed River, which discharges itself under Mt. Warning into the sea. A conical, thinly wooded hill bore N. 307, and was the only remarkable object in that quarter and might be about 15 miles distant, the country between very broken. A distant peak in the Mount Warning Range on the coast, bore north 178°. The rocks composing the summit of this hill, which was named Belle Vue Hill, were of quartz and jasper, the latter predominant.
THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 23rd
Fine and clear. At 7.40 the barometer at the tent stood at 29.673; having no thermometer, the temperature was estimated at about 65°. At the summit of Belle Vue Mt., barometer 29.155. Having made preparations for an absence of give days, Mr. Cunningham and myself set forward to the westward, intending to reach the conical hill which bore N. 307° from Belle Vue, and from which we hoped to have an extensive Western prospect. Our course was on the north side of the river, which was seldom distant above two miles, and lay through a broken and very hilly country; we travelled along the ridges when possible, which caused us to make a very circuitous route to the point we had in view. At 2 o’clock we halted on the south bank of the river under a lofty peak on the opposite side, south side of which was nearly perpendicular, but clothed with pines and other timber to its summit, which was only thinly studded with gum and ironbark trees. We had come in a direct course west not more than about eight miles, but the difficulties and fatigue of travelling through a broken country and under a burning sun can only be properly appreciated by those who have been compelled to march on foot through a tropical country in the middle of the day. After we had refreshed ourselves we crossed the river and ascended the hill, at the summit of which we arrived in time to witness the last descending rays of the sun into the western interior. The great Southern Range was fully developed, and we had the satisfaction to perceive its gradual dip to the lower western country. Between N. {bearing never provided} and N. {bearing never provided} nothing intervened buy a ridge of pine hills laying north and south, declining from a slightly elevated centre to either extreme point, over the south point of which the Southern Range was lost in abyss, while over its northern point was seen the rising of the northern chain of mountains, gradually increasing in altitude as it extended Northward. The country on its eastern side being low, with two or three hummocks rising from the apparent level. The river was seen to wind round the northern end of the pine ridge of hills, flowing directly from the west, in which quarter there was no elevation whatever, and I felt a decided conviction in my mind that there was no natural barrier intervening between the point on which we stood and the western interior, and that consequently the stream of this river was the channel to convey those western waters to the sea. The whole country bore the appearance of the excessive drought, and, judging from its appearance, I should say little or no rain had fallen within the last twelve months. All the northern and southern watercourses, having their sources in the lofty hills in those quaterts were dry, and the growth of grass and shrubs in those parts of the bed of the river (between its outer banks, were near a quarter mile wide), now dry proved that years had intervened since the accumulated waters of the interior had rolled down its channel to the sea, causing those numerous sandbanks and shoals which render the navigation of Moreton Bay so tedious and difficult. I do not think that the bed of the river where we halted was more than six ordinary seasons, the river is easily navigable for boats many miles above the point which terminated our investigation. It is known that a very severe drought has affected the southern parts of New South Wales during the past year, and appearances justify the conjecture that a similar season has prevailed here, and that the low state of the western waters rising therefrom is the cause of the present depressed level of the river. A comparative series of observations made at Bathurst and in the vicinity of this river, carefully noting its rise and fall, would tend much to elucidate what may still appear to be obscure and doubtful in the question of connection between the Brisbane and the western waters.
We saw great numbers of the fish common only to Bathurst and the waters in its vicinity, but we were not so fortunate as to take any; its absolute identity, therefore, rests on the minute examination of the one found in the possession of the native on the 21st. Great forests of noble pine were observed to the S.W., and their useful applicability to naval and other purposes was contemplated with pleasure. The sides of the hills free from Pine were thinly studded with wood and well covered with grass, the summits stony and bad; the levels and valleys good and fit for cultivation. The soil of the hills on which the pine grows, though stone, is very rich and fertile, being covered with a multitude of new and beautiful trees and plants. The country did not seem ill-peopled, fires being seen in every quarter from the eastern ranges of Mount Warning to the distant west.
Kangaroos were numerous, and there would be no want of food for a native population in a country whose waters nourished the nutritious fish of the Western rivers.
The following bearings of remarkable points in the country in connection with the general survey of the river being taken, we descended the hill, which we named (Mount Araucaria), and returned to our temporary wigwam or guniah for the night.
FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 24th
The weather continues very hot and sultry; the dews of the night almost equal small rain, and no doubt cause that appearance of freshness in the vegetation which a long-continued drought would in this climate otherwise entirely destroy. In the early part of the morning Mr. C. employed himself in examining the productions of the pine brushes, and procured many new plants, of genera hitherto believed to exist only within the tropics. We returned to the boats by a somewhat different, but better, route, through a country well clothed with grass, and adapted for grazing, more particularly sheep. The day was remarkably clear, and on reascending Belle Vue Mt. on our return, we had a distinct view of the Coast Range, Mt. Warning bearing N. 144°, distant about 55 miles.
Fatigue and extreme heat had almost exhausted us, and a good night’s repose was a welcome relief.
SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 25th
Clear and sultry. Proceeded down the river, and stopped at 5 o’clock on the left bank opposite Bremer River, for the night. This place will be desirable and convenient for an establishment whenever the settlement is so far extended as to render it an object to procure the pine in large quantities, the river being navigable for very large craft and quite fresh. The country on both sides of the river fit for cultivation. The tide rises about three feet. Passed a family of natives, who, on seeing us, ran into the country, leaving their “valuables” behind them. They had been feeding on long worms, which are found in wood that has been long in a state of decay under water. If we had nothing to add to their store, we left everything as we found it.
SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 26th
Hot, sultry. We continued our course down the river. Obtained several fine plants and specimens of wood. Halted for the night on the L. bank of the river, below Termination Island. During the evening we had a severe storm of thunder, lightning, and rain.
MONDAY SEPTEMBER 27th
Sultry as usual, proceeded down the river. It may be remarked here that when I first visited it in December, 1823, the water was found fresh about sixteen miles lower down than we at present experienced it. The tide having been against us the greater part of the day, we did not get lower down the river than Crescent Reach, where we intended stopping for the night, as I expected to find fresh water. We saw at the commencement of the reach on the left bank a very large assemblage of natives in the same spot we saw them last year. It was evidently a favourite place with them, most probably on account of water being convenient, as among the company was a full proportion of women and children. We landed about half-mile below this encampment on the same side of the river, there being a small creek between us, which I hoped would prevent them visiting us, as I had no desire to hold communication with them, having had full proof of their desire to possess everything they see and making off with what they can secure without the ceremony of asking leave. Whilst the test was pitching and the things getting out of the boats, Mr. B. and myself went in search of water, while Mr. C. superintended getting the things on shore. We had not been long about, and were returning unsuccessful to the tent, which was by this time pitched, when we found a large party of the natives had found their way to it. They had been very troublesome, and Mr. C. had some difficulty in preventing them taking what they chose, particularly one man, who was recognised as the one who stole my hat on the morning of the 17th. He was a fine, athletic man, as indeed they all were. On seeing him, I made signs that I knew him, and was angry with him, and that he must bring back the hat. He seemed well to understand my meaning, but only laughed and jumped about. At length, seeing we would not suffer him to come near the tent, he made signs as if he and another would go and bring the hat, and went off, leaving five or six about us on a hill a little above the tent. He shortly returned, but as I might have expected, with the hat. On the contrary, he returned, he had brought with him a number of other natives, making now in the whole about 14 – about the strongest and best-made muscular men I have seen in any country. We determined that this fellow should not come near us, and Mr. Cunningham endeavoured to explain to a fine, stout young man the reason, which he seemed well enough to understand. Mr. Butler was holding some of the others in conversation, when the savage before mentioned, who had for some time appeared working himself into a transport of passion, as is usual before they attempt anything violent, seized a piece of wood and hurled it at me. Fortunately, some dead branches on the ground intervening, it fell short, being thrown in the same manner as is the boomerang. The other natives had before begun to fall back, and Mr. Butler, having seen him throw the stick, and observing him about to renew the attack on Mr. C. with a stone, fired at him, and struck him on the left arm and side. He immediately made off, running towards the creek, the others slowly going off different ways, but in no matter interfering to assist their companion. We observed him drop on the edge of the creek, about 200 yards from us. After a little time, observing no one come to assist him, though the greater part of them were within a few yards of him, we went to him, and found him laying on his side, being apparently severely though not dangerously wounded with the small shot with which the barrel was loaded. He bled, but very little, and I was not sorted that he had suffered for his boldness. The other natives seemed to consider him as having sought his fate, for on our making signs that they should come and take him away they immediately crossed the creek, and, first motioning for us to withdraw a little, two of them approached him and, first blowing on his face several times, they should as for more assistance, which, being immediately afforded by the others, he was taken to their camp on their shoulders. The cam was not distant more than 500 yards from us, but out of sight. We soon discovered his arrival there by the most dismal howlings and wailings I ever heard set up by the women and children, and this noise was continued with little intermission through the night, and then men occasionally joined in loud but measured shouts. We through at different times we heard dancing, as if a corroboree had been held round him, but the cries of women and children seeing distress prevailed, and from the singular noises that continued we conjectured that various ceremonies were performing, and that the wounded man was probably of some consideration among them, as indeed his numerous curious tattooed and raised marks, together with his whole conduct and deportment, had before seemed to indicate.
It had been repeatedly necessary before firing to point the piece at one of other, more particularly at the wounded man, in order to deter them from plunder; they, however, seemed to think very little of it, which I attribute to their having seen Mr. Butler fire at a duck in the river, which he unluckily missed, as also that the man who had been fired at on the 17th, whilst making off with the instruments had been so very slightly wounded as to give them a contemptible opinion of our means of defence against their depredations, and though I deeply regretted the necessity that had now occasioned our firing, yet I was glad that the shout had taken effect on the right person, and the serious pain he must doubtless sugar would operate in some degree as a warning and proof that we were not utterly defenceless. I also hoped it might have its good effects among the tribes in the vicinity of the new settlement, as, though the distance is considerable, probably 25 or 30 miles, yet events of this nature are sure to be communicated from tribe to tribe, and the knowledge of the powerful effect of our weapons operate in deterring them from attempting the little petty thefts which their ardent desire to possess whatever they behold would otherwise doubtless tempt them to commit.
TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 28th
A calm, still night. The howlings at the camp of the natives ceased an hour or two before sunrise, and were resumed with redoubled violence on the rising of that luminary, and shortly after almost entirely ceased. We had intended to visit their camp, but considering that we might disturb them, and certainly fright away their women and children, the intention was given up, and we proceeded down the river, landing about three-quarters of a mile from our sleeping place, to look for water, which we found in abundance and of excellent quality, being at this season a chain of ponds watering a fine valley. The soil good, with timber and a few Pines, by no means an ineligible station for a first settlement up the river. At 4 o’clock, after a fatiguing now, we gained the entrance of the river, and stopped an hour to dine before we proceeded to the vessel. I took several bearings from the north point of the river to determine its position, and returned to the vessel about 10 o’clock the same night, after an absence of 13 days, spent in most interesting and, I hope, useful investigations. The examination of the lower part of the Bay had been executed and a good channel sounded. The vessel, having been moored on the bank of sand to close to Redcliff Point for the convenience of unloading, had drifted in a strong gale from the S.E., having broken one of the flukes of the best-bower. The vessel was moved further out and against moored, the anchor laying in a bottom of stiff mud. No vessel should anchor for considerable time in less than five fathoms off the Point, as the holding ground within the three fm. bank is bad, being hard sand. Small vessels of light draft may lay close to the shore, but when unloaded, should haul out into deeper, water, as the extreme openness and want of the shelter cause a very heavy sea to rise in a short time; it subsides, however, as suddenly as it rises. The winds causing the greatest sea are from north round by the east to S.S.E., the land laying at such a distance between those points as to afford little or no shelter. The master had proceeded in the barge, accompanied by Mr. Hoddle, to sound the south entrance into the Bay, as I had previously directed. The settlement was getting on but slowly.
WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 29th
Warm, sultry W. Preparing boats and tools in order to procure some of the pine spars from Deception River. At noon obsd. The sun’s meridian altitude, 64° 56’ 10”.