SATURDAY NOVEMBER 29TH 1823
Off the Glass House, at 12. Sun’s meridian altitude, 84° 19′ 00″. North Glass House west 25 south, Cape Moreton south 56 east.
A shoal extending 3 or 4 miles from the land, the opposite eastern extreme south by west distant 2 or 3 miles, distance off shore 3 miles.
From noon, sailed five and a-quarter miles south by east half east. Shoal water three fathoms.
North Glass House, south 83° west; Cape Moreton, south 64° east. Deepened almost directly to six fathoms and within half a mile shoaled again to three fathoms. These shoals appear to extend right across from shore to shore with alternate channels of deeper water from four to six fathoms. The first shoal breaks at low water about two and three-quarter miles from the west shore. After passing through this shoal water for about one and three- quarter miles, at 3.25 p.m. we deepened our water, having passed these shoals, which form a kind of bar across to the centre or the north portion of the bay. The North Glass House, south 87° west; Point Skirmish, about south 8° east.
We rounded Point Skirmish about 5 o’clock and observed a number of natives running along the beach towards the vessel. The foremost one appeared very much lighter in colour than the rest. We took him for a half-caste, but were to the last degree astonished when he came abreast the vessel (which had just anchored) to hear him hail us in good English. We immediately went on shore and were received by the poor man with a breathless joy, that almost deprived him of utterance.
He said his name was Thomas Pamphlett, that he left Sydney on 21st March in company with three other men, Richard Parsons, John Finigan and another whose name he does not remember, being a stranger to him when he sailed. That intending to go to the Five Islands for cedar, they were caught by a small gale of wind shortly after quitting the Heads, and were blown out of sight of land. That some days after, when the gale abated, they made the land again, and thought they had been blown to the southward. near Jervis Bay. That under this impression they kept to the north 21 days without water, having only four gallons when they sailed. The man whose name he does not know died for want of it. Had plenty of provisions but had neither fire nor the means of procuring any. Ran the boat on shore on the outside of a large island (proved to be Moreton Island) where she was dashed to pieces. Walked round the island, fell in with natives who were universally kind to them and assisted them. There they wandered for many weeks round the shore of Moreton Bay (Glass House Bay) in entire ignorance where they were. Went up a river which they found to be fresh at some distance from the mouth. Descended in a canoe and found their way to Point Skirmish, receiving occasional assistance from the natives. That three or four months ago, still believing themselves to the south of Sydney, they set forward to the north. That himself and Finigan, being footsore, soon returned to Point Skirmish. That Parsons went on; he does not know where he now is, but thinks he is not many days’ journey from this place. The natives were certainly kind to him. Finigan went upon a hunting excursion about three or four weeks ago, with the Chief of the tribe of Point Skirmish, and is now on the opposite side of the Bay.
SUNDAY NOVEMBER 30TH
Natives were round us in considerable numbers and seemed most friendly. Pamphlett assured us they would do no harm, and had treated him with great kindness. He afterwards gave many curious and interesting particulars respecting them, &c.
Found plenty of good, fresh water in deep swamps close to the beach, a great treasure to us who had suffered severely from bad water.
Plenty of the Cupressus australis growing to a large size. A native burial place close by. Endeavoured to make clear to the natives, through Bowen (our Sydney native, who understood something of what they said), and Pamphlet, our desire to see the other two white men.
Presented them with knives, etc., with which they seem much pleased. Returned on board taking Pamphlet with us. He had been out fishing and been very successful.
Fresh winds from the southward and eastward. Sent all the water casks on shore, and preparing to examine the western shores of the Bay in the morrow.
I went on shore and examined the margin of the coast round Point Skirmish. Found plenty of cypress of large and useful dimensions and a good ornamental species of eucalyptus. The other trees were nearly similar in The soil, a poor, loose sand. species to those in the vicinity of Port Macquarie, but were small and stunted.
Obtained some of the root from the swamps, called by the natives bulwang, and used by them as bread. It is a species of fern, with a large tap-root for about two feet, which then, sending forth shoots, runs horizontally to a great distance from the parent stem. (Beaten and roasted, very palatable).
About 3 o’clock, we had the satisfaction to see a white man wading into the water from the point opposite, and on sending the boat for him, he proved to be John Finigan, whose actions, words and countenance showed how deeply he was overpowered by his sudden and unlooked deliverance.
His account of the wreck of the boat and their subsequent adventures perfectly coincided with the statement we had previously received from Pamphlet, and was somewhat clearer as to dates. His manner throughout was truly diverting, yet was perfectly original in his remarks and detail. His resignation under his sufferings and privations did high credit to the native simplicity of disposition which seemed a marked feature in his character. He spoke highly of his friend the King, and agreed with Pamphlet on praising the kind and humane treatment which they had received from the untutored beings who inhabit these shores. He quitted his companion Parsons three days after Pamphlet, being afraid from his wild language and threats that he would do him some bodily harm, as they were both reduced to the last extremity of hunger, not having seen any of their friendly natives for some days. Finigan, soon after quitting Parsons, fell in with some who had seen him in Moreton Bay, and they would not suffer him to proceed northerly as was his wish, intimating to him that he would meet with people who would illuse him.
From his account, and the day’s journey they were to the north of Point Skirmish, it appears that he parted with Parsons on the banks of the south arm of Wide Bay – in a brush near which he saw some cedar trees growing, the water salt.
On the east coast of Moreton Island they saw a New Zealand canoe of large size, painted red, also a log of cedar with a staple in it. It is a singular circumstance that from the description given of the canoe it was recognised by a seaman on board as one that the Echo, south whaler, had procured in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, when he was there. The canoe being not only remarkable by its colour, but also its size and long, projecting head.
The Echo was wrecked about two years ago on Wreck Reef. Thus it would appear that some judgment may be formed as to the set of currents on this part of the coast. Out at sea, they appear to set strong to the southward, in shore to the north, and this corresponds with my own experience on this point and with that of Captain Flinders.
The men in the boat were deceived by these currents. Leaving Sydney at a period of the year when it is known the southerly currents prevail strongest, they at once conceived they must have been set in that direction, whereas not being in the stream of that current, they were set to the north, and they were only convinced to the contrary by their falling in with us. Finigan, however, declared he thought it very strange that if they were to the south, the weather should prove so extremely hot, and that instead of getting colder, as he afterwards knew it ought to do, as the winter season was advancing, it was rapidly getting warmer every day they sailed to the north, in which direction they imagined Sydney to be. Time, they had nothing to do with. What was it to men so situated? They had long forborne to keep any account. They, however, remembered the day of the month they left Sydney, and up to a period of 101 days. Finigan asked the day of the week and being informed it was Sunday, uttered a shout, and, I am sure a heartfelt prayer of thanks to his Beneficent Creator for his deliverance.
MONDAY DECEMBER 1ST
Calm, with rain, until 10 o’clock, then clear with winds from eastward. At 7, left the vessel to examine the west shore of the Bay, and at 12 landed on a low mangrove island at the entrance of a considerable river, carrying from the main part of the Bay to the inlet in which it lays, two and a-half fathoms, stiff mud.
Station 1st. – Redcliff Point, north 62 1/2° east, 2 [miles] in line with point of island, 10 chains; on the point to the south-east,71 north 150°, one and a-half mile. Inner point opposite, north 164° half mile, narrowing to one- quarter, the channel on the island side off the point, of which runs a sand spit about 30 chains to the eastward. Tree up the river on west bank, north 251°, one and a-half [miles].
Station 2. – Short of last station 30 chains, north 175° 50 chains. Full of low mangrove islands and shoals, width about one-quarter mile. The river to end of this station very narrow, six or seven chains, but deep, five fathoms.
Station 3. – On Larboard shore, north 287° 60 chains, cutting a low mangrove point on opposite shore. Shores on both sides low, six to eight feet water at low water; north 306° 40 low and swampy. North 325° 30; north 297° 30. Finding the stream had its source in swamps and not from the mountains, did not pursue it further. Where we left off, the water was brackish, and there were a great many very fine cypresses. Ascended a small hill on right, of good soil. Saw the stream had a weir across a little higher up. Much good timber of the eucalyptus species, with she-oak (casuarina) and dog-wood. The natives are very numerous on the shores of this inlet, and came down in great numbers, trying all methods in their power to induce us to land, waving green boughs, holding up their necklaces, etc. Several waded off to the boat, to whom we gave biscuit, which they ate.
After pulling out of the inlet, we landed at sunset on a point. Stony, good land, about three miles to the south-east of the entrance into the inlet we had examined, and round which is a shoal inlet. Plenty of fresh water and grass.