Saturday, 19th May, 1770
In the afternoon, had variable light airs and calms; in the night, had a light breeze from the land, which in the morning veered to south-west and south-south-west. In the evening, found the variation to be 8 degrees 36 minutes east, and in the morning 8 degrees 20 minutes; as we had but little wind, we kept to the northward all night, having from 23 to 27 fathoms fine sandy bottom, at the distance of 2 or 3 leagues from the land. At noon, we were about 4 miles from it, and by observation in the latitude of 25 degrees 4 minutes. In this situation, we had but 13 fathoms; the northermost land in sight bore north 21 degrees west, distant 8 miles; our course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon was north 13 degrees 15 minutes east, 31 miles.
Sunday, 20th May, 1770
Winds southerly, gentle breezes. At 1 o’clock in the PM, we passed at the distance of 4 miles, having 17 fathoms of water, a black bluff head or point of land on which a number of the natives were assembled, which occasioned my naming it Indian Head (Latitude 25°0′ N). NBW.
Four miles from this head, there is another much like it. From this last, the land trends a little more to the westward and is low and sandy next to the sea. For what may be behind it, we know not; if land, it must be all very low, for we could see no part of it from the masthead.
We saw people in other places besides the one I have mentioned, some smokes in the day and fires in the night. Having but little wind all night, we kept on to the northward, having from 17 to 34 fathoms of water from 4 miles to 4 leagues from the land. The northernmost part of which bore from us at daylight WSW and seemed to end in a point from which we discovered a reef stretching out to the northward as far as we could see, being at this time in 18 fathoms of water. For we had before it was light hauled our wind to the westward, and this course we continued until we had plainly discovered breakers a long way upon our lee bow, which seemed to stretch quite home to the land. We then edged away NW and NNW along the east side of the shoal from 2 to 1 mile off, having regular even soundings from 13 to 7 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom.
At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 24°26′ S, which was 9 miles to the northward of that given by the log. The extreme point of the reef shoal we judged to bear about NW from us, and the point of land above mentioned bore S¾W, distant 20 miles. This point I have named Sandy Cape on account of two very large white patches of sand upon it; it is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 leagues in clear weather (Latitude 24°46′, Longitude 206°51′). From it, the land trended away WSW and SW as far as we could see.
Monday, 21st May, 1770
In the PM we kept along the east side of the shoal until 2 o’clock when, judging that there was water for us over, I sent a boat ahead to sound. Upon her making the signal for more than 5 fathoms, we hauled our wind and stood over the tail of it in 6 fathoms. At this time we were in the latitude of 24° 22′ and Sandy Cape bore S½E, distant 8 leagues. The direction of the shoal is nearest NNW and SSE.
At the time we had 6 fathoms, the boat which was not above a quarter of a mile to the south of us had little more than 5 fathoms. From 6 fathoms, we had the next cast of 13 and then 20 immediately, as fast as the men could heave the lead. From this, I supposed that the west side of the shoal is pretty steep, whereas on the other side we had gradual sounding from 13 to 7 fathoms. This shoal I called Break Sea Spit, because now we had smooth water, whereas upon the whole coast to the south of it we always had a high sea or swell from the SE.
At 6 o’clock the land of Sandy Cape extended from South 17° East to South 27° East, distance 8 leagues, depth of water 23 fathoms which depth we kept all night as we stood to the westward with light airs from the southward. But between 12 and 4 AM we had it calm, after which a gentle breeze sprung up at South with which we still kept on upon a wind to the westward. At 7 o’clock we saw from the masthead the land of Sandy Cape bearing SE½E, distant 12 or 13 leagues. At 9 we discovered from the masthead land to the westward and soon after saw smokes upon it. Our depth of water was now decreased to 17 fathoms and by noon to 13, at which time we were by observation in the latitude of 24° 28′ and about 7 leagues from the land which extended from SBW to WNW longitude made from Sandy Cape 0° 45′ West.
For these few days past we have seen at times a sort of sea fowl we have not seen before that I remember, they are of that sort called Boobies. Before today, we seldom saw more than 2 or 3 at a time and only when we were near the land. Last night a small flock of these birds passed the ship and went away to the NW, and this morning from half an hour before sunrise to half an hour after, flights of them were continually coming from the NNW and flying to the SSE. Not one was seen to fly in any other direction. From this, we supposed that there was a lagoon, river, or inlet of shallow water to the southward of us where these birds resorted to in the day to feed, and that not very far to the northward lay some island where they retired to in the night.