Tuesday, 14th August, 1770
Winds at southeast, a steady gale. By 2 p.m. we got out to the outermost reefs, and just fetched to windward of one of the openings I had discovered from the island; we tacked and made a short trip to the southwest, while the master went in the pinnace to examine the channel, who soon made the signal for the ship to follow, which we accordingly did, and in a short time got safe out. This channel lies northeast 1/2 north, 3 leagues from Lizard Island; it is about one-third of a mile broad, and 25 or 30 fathoms deep or more. The moment we were without the breakers we had no ground with 100 fathoms of line, and found a large sea rolling in from the southeast. By this I was well assured we were got without all the shoals, which gave us no small joy, after having been entangled among islands and shoals, more or less, ever since the 26th of May, in which time we have sailed above 360 leagues by the lead without ever having a leadsman out of the chains, when the ship was under sail; a circumstance that perhaps never happened to any ship before, and yet it was here absolutely necessary. I should have been very happy to have had it in my power to have kept in with the land, in order to have explored the coast to the northern extremity of the country, which I think we were not far off, for I firmly believe this land does not join to New Guinea. But this I hope soon either to prove or disprove, and the reasons I have before assigned will, I presume, be thought sufficient for my leaving the coast at this time; not but what I intend to get in with it again as soon as I can do it with safety. The passage or channel we now came out by, which I have named, —— lies in the latitude of 14 degrees 32 minutes south; it may always be found and known by the 3 high islands within it, which I have called the Islands of Direction, because by their means a safe passage may be found even by strangers within the main reef, and quite into the main. Lizard Island, which is the northernmost and largest of the 3, affords snug anchorage under the northwest side of it, fresh water and wood for fuel; and the low islands and reefs which lay between it and the main, abound with turtle and other fish, which may be caught at all seasons of the year (except in such blowing weather as we have lately had). All these things considered there is, perhaps, not a better place on the whole coast for a ship to refresh at than this island. I had forgot to mention in its proper place, that not only on this island, but on Eagle Island, and on several places of the sea beach in and about Endeavour River, we found bamboos, coconut, the seeds of some few other plants, and pumice-stones, which were not the produce of the country. From what we have seen of it, it is reasonable to suppose that they are the produce of some lands or islands laying in the neighborhood, most likely to the eastward, and are brought hither by the easterly trade winds. The islands discovered by Quiros lie in this parallel, but how far to the eastward it’s hard to say; for although we found in most charts his discoveries placed as far to the west as this country yet from the account of his voyage, compared with what we ourselves have seen, we are morally certain that he never was upon any part of this coast. As soon as we had got without the reefs we shortened sail, and hoisted in the pinnace and longboat, which last we had hung alongside, and then stretched off east-northeast, close upon a wind, as I did not care to stand to the northward until we had a whole day before us, for which reason we kept making short boards all night. The large hollow sea we have now got into acquaints us with a circumstance we did not before know, which is that the ship hath received more damage than we were aware of, or could perceive when in smooth water; for now she makes as much water as one pump will free, kept constantly at work. However, this was looked upon as trifling to the danger we had lately made an escape from. At daylight in the morning Lizard Island bore south by west, distant 10 leagues. We now made all the sail we could, and stood away north-northwest 1/2 west, but at 9 we steered northwest 1/2 north, having the advantage of a fresh gale at southeast; at noon we were by observation in the latitude of 13 degrees 46 minutes south, the Lizard Island bore south 15 degrees east, distant 58 miles, but we had no land in sight.
Wednesday, 15th August, 1770
Fresh trade at southeast and clear weather. At 6 in the evening shortened sail and brought to, with her head to the northeast. By this time we had run near 12 leagues upon a northwest 1/2 north course since noon. At 4 a.m. wore and lay her head to the southwest, and at 6 made all sail, and steered west, in order to make the land, being fearful of overshooting the passage, supposing there to be one, between this land and New Guinea. By noon we had run 10 leagues upon this course, but saw no land. Our latitude by observation was 13 degrees 2 minutes south, longitude 216 degrees 00 minutes west, which was 1 degree 23 minutes to the west of Lizard Island.
Thursday, 16th August, 1770
Moderate breezes at east-southeast and fair weather. A little after noon saw the land from the masthead bearing west-southwest, making high; at 2 saw more land to the northwest of the former, making in hills like islands; but we took it to be a continuation of the mainland. An hour after this we saw a reef, between us and the land, extending away to the southward, and, as we thought, terminated here to the northward abreast of us; but this was only on opening, for soon after we saw it extend away to the northward as far as we could distinguish anything. Upon this we hauled close upon a wind, which was now at east-southeast, with all the sail we could set. We had hardly trimmed our sails before the wind came to east by north, which made our weathering the reef very doubtful, the northern point of which in sight at sunset still bore from us north by west, distant about 2 leagues. However, this being the best tack to clear it, we kept standing to the northward, keeping a good lookout until 12 at night, when, fearing to run too far upon one course, we tacked and stood to the southward, having run 6 leagues north or north by east since sunset; we had not stood above 2 miles to the south-southeast before it fell quite calm. We both sounded now and several times before, but had no bottom with 140 fathoms of line. A little after 4 o’clock the roaring of the surf was plainly heard, and at daybreak the vast foaming breakers were too plainly to be seen not a mile from us, towards which we found the ship was carried by the waves surprisingly fast. We had at this time not an air of wind, and the depth of water was unfathomable, so that there was not a possibility of anchoring. In this distressed situation we had nothing but Providence and the small assistance the boats could give us to trust to; the pinnace was under repair, and could not immediately be hoisted out. The yawl was put in the water, and the longboat hoisted out, and both sent ahead to tow, which, together with the help of our sweeps abaft, got the ship’s head round to the northward, which seemed to be the best way to keep her off the reef, or at least to delay time. Before this was effected it was 6 o’clock, and we were not above 80 or 100 yards from the breakers. The same sea that washed the side of the ship rose in a breaker prodigiously high the very next time it did rise, so that between us and destruction was only a dismal valley, the breadth of one wave, and even now no ground could be felt with 120 fathom. The pinnace was by this time patched up, and hoisted out and sent ahead to tow. Still we had hardly any hopes of saving the ship, and full as little our lives, as we were full 10 leagues from the nearest land, and the boats not sufficient to carry the whole of us; yet in this truly terrible situation not one man ceased to do his utmost, and that with as much calmness as if no danger had been near. All the dangers we had escaped were little in comparison of being thrown upon this reef, where the ship must be dashed to pieces in a moment. A reef such as one speaks of here is scarcely known in Europe. It is a wall of coral rock rising almost perpendicular out of the unfathomable ocean, always overflown at high water generally 7 or 8 feet, and dry in places at low water. The large waves of the vast ocean meeting with so sudden a resistance make a most terrible surf, breaking mountains high, especially as in our case, when the general trade wind blows directly upon it. At this critical juncture, when all our endeavors seemed too little, a small air of wind sprung up, but so small that at any other time in a calm we should not have observed it. With this, and the assistance of our boats, we could observe the ship to move off from the reef in a slanting direction; but in less than 10 minutes we had as flat a calm as ever, when our fears were again renewed, for as yet we were not above 200 yards from the breakers. Soon after our friendly breeze visited us again, and lasted about as long as before. A small opening was now seen in the reef about a quarter of a mile from us, which I sent one of the mates to examine. Its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but within was smooth water. Into this place it was resolved to push her if possible, having no other probable views to save her, for we were still in the very jaws of destruction, and it was a doubt whether or no we could reach this opening. However, we soon got off it, when to our surprise we found the tide of ebb gushing out like a mill stream, so that it was impossible to get in. We however took all the advantage possible of it, and it carried us out about a quarter of a mile from the breakers; but it was too narrow for us to keep in long. However, what with the help of this ebb, and our boats, we by noon had got an offing of 1 1/2 or 2 miles, yet we could hardly flatter ourselves with hopes of getting clear, even if a breeze should spring up, as we were by this time embayed by the reef, and the ship, in spite of our endeavors, driving before the sea into the bight. The ebb had been in our favor, and we had reason to suppose the flood which was now made would be against us. The only hopes we had was another opening we saw about a mile to the westward of us, which I sent Lieutenant Hicks in the small boat to examine. Latitude observed 12 degrees 37 minutes south, the mainland in sight distant about 10 leagues.
Friday, 17th August, 1770
While Mr. Hicks was examining the opening we struggled hard with the flood, sometimes gaining a little and at other times losing. At 2 o’clock Mr. Hicks returned with a favorable account of the opening. It was immediately resolved to try to secure the ship in it. Narrow and dangerous as it was, it seemed to be the only means we had of saving her, as well as ourselves. A light breeze soon after sprung up at east-northeast, with which, the help of our boats, and a flood tide, we soon entered the opening, and were hurried through in a short time by a rapid tide like a mill race, which kept us from driving against either side, though the channel was not more than a quarter of a mile broad, having 2 boats ahead of us sounding. Our depth of water was from 30 to 7 fathoms; very irregular soundings and foul ground until we had got quite within the reef, where we anchored in 19 fathoms, a coral and shelly bottom. The channel we came in by, which I have named Providential Channel, bore east-northeast, distant 10 or 12 miles, being about 8 or 9 leagues from the mainland, which extended from north 66 degrees west to southwest by south.
It is but a few days ago that I rejoiced at having got without the reef; but that joy was nothing when compared to what I now felt at being safe at anchor within it. Such are the vicissitudes attending this kind of service, and must always attend an unknown navigation where one steers wholly in the dark without any manner of guide whatever. Was it not for the pleasure which naturally results to a man from his being the first discoverer, even if it was nothing more than land or shoals, this kind of service would be insupportable, especially in far distant parts like this, short of provisions and almost every other necessary. People will hardly admit of an excuse for a man leaving a coast unexplored he has once discovered. If dangers are his excuse, he is then charged with timorousness and want of perseverance, and at once pronounced to be the most unfit man in the world to be employed as a discoverer; if, on the other hand, he boldly encounters all the dangers and obstacles he meets with, and is unfortunate enough not to succeed, he is then charged with temerity, and perhaps want of conduct. The former of these aspersions, I am confident, can never be laid to my charge, and if I am fortunate to surmount all the dangers we meet with, the latter will never be brought in question; although I must own that I have engaged more among the islands and shoals upon this coast than perhaps in prudence I ought to have done with a single ship and every other thing considered. But if I had not I should not have been able to give any better account of the one half of it than if I had never seen it; at best, I should not have been able to say whether it was mainland or islands; and as to its produce, that we should have been totally ignorant of as being inseparable with the other; and in this case, it would have been far more satisfaction to me never to have discovered it. But it is time I should have done with this subject, which at best is but disagreeable, and which I was led into on reflecting on our late dangers.
In the p.m., as the wind would not permit us to sail out by the same channel as we came in, neither did I care to move until the pinnace was in better repair, I sent the master with all the other boats to the reef to get such refreshments as he could find, and in the meantime the carpenters were repairing the pinnace. Variations by the amplitude and azimuth in the morning 4 degrees 9 minutes easterly; at noon latitude observed 12 degrees 38 minutes south, longitude in 216 degrees 45 minutes west. It being now about low water, I and some other of the officers went to the masthead to see what we could discover. Great part of the reef without us was dry, and we could see an opening in it about two leagues farther to the southeast than the one we came in by; we likewise saw 2 large spots of sand to the southward within the reef, but could see nothing to the northward between it and the main. On the mainland within us was a pretty high promontory, which I called Cape Weymouth (latitude 12 degrees 42 minutes south, longitude 217 degrees 15 minutes); and on the northwest side of this cape is a bay, which I called Weymouth Bay.
Saturday, 18th August, 1770
Gentle breezes at east and east-southeast. At 4 p.m. the boats returned from the reef with about 240 pounds of shellfish, being the meat of large cockles, exclusive of the shells. Some of these cockles are as large as 2 men can move, and contain about 20 pounds of meat, very good. At 6 in the morning we got under sail, and stood away to the northwest, as we could not expect a wind to get out to sea by the same channel as we came in without waiting perhaps a long time for it, nor was it advisable at this time to go without the shoals, lest we should by them be carried so far off the coast as not to be able to determine whether or not New Guinea joins to or makes a part of this land. This doubtful point I had from my first coming upon the coast, determined, if possible, to clear up; I now came to a fixed resolution to keep the mainland on board, let the consequence be what it will, and in this all the officers concurred. In standing to the northwest we met with very irregular soundings, from 10 to 27 fathoms, varying 5 or 6 fathoms almost every cast of the lead. However, we kept on having a boat ahead sounding. A little before noon we passed a low, small, sandy isle, which we left on our starboard side at the distance of 2 miles. At the same time we saw others, being part of large shoals above water, away to the northeast and between us and the mainland. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 12 degrees 28 minutes south, and 4 or 5 leagues from the main, which extended from south by west to north 71 degrees west, and some small islands extending from north 40 degrees west to north 54 degrees west, the main or outer reef seen from the masthead away to the northeast.
Sunday, 19th August, 1770
Gentle breezes at southeast by east and clear weather. At 2 p.m., as we were steering northwest by north, saw a large shoal right ahead, extending 3 or 4 points on each bow, upon which we hauled up north-northeast and northeast by north, in order to get round to the north point of it, which we reached by 4 o’clock, and then edged away to the westward, and ran between the north end of this shoal and another, which lays 2 miles to the northward of it, having a boat all the time ahead sounding. Our depth of water was very irregular, from 22 to 8 fathoms. At half past 6 we anchored in 13 fathoms; the northernmost of the small islands mentioned at noon bore west 1/2 south, distant 3 miles. These islands, which are known in the chart by the name of Forbes’s Isles, lay about 5 leagues from the main, which here forms a moderate high point, which we called Bolt Head, from which the land trends more westerly, and is all low, sandy land, but to the southward it is high and hilly, even near the sea. At 6 a.m. we got under sail, and directed our course for an island which lay but a little way from the main, and bore from us at this time north 40 degrees west, distant 5 leagues; but we were soon interrupted in our course by meeting with shoals, but by the help of 2 boats ahead and a good lookout at the masthead we got at last into a fair channel, which led us down to the island, having a very large shoal on our starboard side and several smaller ones betwixt us and the mainland. In this channel we had from 20 to 30 fathoms. Between 11 and 12 o’clock we hauled round the northeast side of the island, leaving it between us and the main from which it is distant 7 or 8 miles. This island is about a league in circuit and of a moderate height, and is inhabited; to the northwest of it are several small, low islands and keys, which lay not far from the main, and to the northward and eastward lay several other islands and shoals, so that we were now encompassed on every side by one or the other, but so much does a great danger swallow up lesser ones, that these once so much dreaded spots were now looked at with less concern. The boats being out of their stations, we brought to to wait for them. At noon our latitude by observation was 12 degrees 0 minutes south, longitude in 217 degrees 25 minutes west; depth of water 14 fathoms; course and distance sailed, reduced to a straight line, since yesterday noon is north 29 degrees west, 32 miles. The mainland within the above islands forms a point, which I call Cape Grenville (latitude 11 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 217 degrees 38 minutes); between this cape and the Bolt Head is a bay, which I named Temple Bay. East 1/2 north, 9 leagues from Cape Grenville, lay some tolerable high islands, which I called Sir Charles Hardy’s Isles; those which lay off the cape I named Cockburn Isles.
Monday, 20th August, 1770
Fresh breezes at east-southeast. About one p.m. the pinnace having got ahead, and the yawl we took in tow, we filled and steered north by west, for some small islands we had in that direction. After approaching them a little nearer we found them joined or connected together by a large reef; upon this we edged away northwest, and left them on our starboard hand, steering between them and the island laying off the main, having a fair and clear passage; depth of water from 15 to 23 fathoms. At 4 we discovered some low islands and rocks bearing west-northwest, which we stood directly for. At half past 6 we anchored on the northeast side of the northernmost, in 16 fathoms, distant from the island one mile. This isle lay northwest 4 leagues from Cape Grenville. On the isles we saw a good many birds, which occasioned my calling them Bird Isles. Before and at sunset we could see the mainland, which appeared all very low and sandy, extending as far to the northward as northwest by north, and some shoals, keys, and low sandy isles away to the northeast of us. At 6 a.m. we got again under sail, with a fresh breeze at east, and stood away north-northwest for some low islands we saw in that direction; but we had not stood long upon this course before we were obliged to haul close upon a wind in order to weather a shoal which we discovered on our larboard bow, having at the same time others to the eastward of us. By such time as we had weathered the shoal to leeward we had brought the islands well upon our leebow; but seeing some shoals spit off from them, and some rocks on our starboard bow, which we did not discover until we were very near them, made me afraid to go to windward of the islands; wherefore we brought to, and made the signal for the pinnace, which was ahead, to come on board, which done, I sent her to leeward of the islands, with orders to keep along the edge off the shoal, which spitted off from the south side of the southernmost island. The yawl I sent to run over the shoals to look for turtle, and appointed them a signal to make in case they saw many; if not, she was to meet us on the other side of the island. As soon as the pinnace had got a proper distance from us we wore, and stood after her, and ran to leeward of the islands, where we took the yawl in tow, she having seen only one small turtle, and therefore made no stay upon the shoal. Upon this island, which is only a small spot of land, with some trees upon it, we saw many huts and habitations of the natives, which we supposed come over from the main to these islands (from which they are distant about 5 leagues) to catch turtle at the time these animals come ashore to lay their eggs. Having got the yawl in tow, we stood away after the pinnace north-northeast and north by east to 2 other low islands, having 2 shoals, which we could see without and one between us and the main. At noon we were about 4 leagues from the mainland, which we could see extending to the northward as far as northwest by north, all low, flat, and sandy. Our latitude by observation was 11 degrees 23 minutes south, longitude in 217 degrees 46 minutes west, and course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon north 22 degrees west, 40 miles; soundings from 14 to 23 fathoms. But these are best seen upon the chart, as likewise the islands, shoals, etc., which are too numerous to be mentioned singly.
Tuesday, 21st August, 1770
Winds at east by south and east-southeast, fresh breeze. By one o’clock we had run nearly the length of the southernmost of the two islands before mentioned, and finding that we could not well go to windward of them without carrying us too far from the mainland, we bore up and ran to leeward, where we found a fair open passage. This done, we steered north by west, in a parallel direction with the mainland, leaving a small island between us and it, and some low sandy isles and shoals without us, all of which we lost sight of by 4 o’clock; neither did we see any more before the sun went down, at which time the farthest part of the main in sight bore north-northwest 1/2 west. Soon after this, we anchored in 13 fathoms, soft ground, about five leagues from the land, where we lay until daylight, when we got again under sail, having first sent the yawl ahead to sound. We steered north-northwest by compass from the northernmost land in sight; variation 3 degrees 6 minutes east. Seeing no danger in our way we took the yawl in tow, and made all the sail we could until 8 o’clock, at which time we discovered shoals ahead and on our larboard bow, and saw that the northernmost land, which we had taken to be a part of the main, was an island, or islands, between which and the main there appeared to be a good passage through which we might pass by running to leeward of the shoals on our larboard bow, which was now pretty near us. Whereupon we wore and brought to, and sent away the pinnace and yawl to direct us clear of the shoals, and then stood after them. Having got round the southeast point of the shoal we steered northwest along the southwest, or inside of it, keeping a good lookout at the masthead, having another shoal on our larboard side; but we found a good channel of a mile broad between them, wherein were from 10 to 14 fathoms. At 11 o’clock, being nearly the length of the islands above mentioned, and designing to pass between them and the main, the yawl, being thrown astern by falling in upon a part of the shoal, she could not get over. We brought the ship to, and sent away the longboat (which we had astern, and rigged) to keep inshore upon our larboard bow, and the pinnace on our starboard; for although there appeared nothing in the passage, yet I thought it necessary to take this method, because we had a strong flood, which carried us on end very fast, and it did not want much of high water. As soon as the boats were ahead we stood after them, and got through by noon, at which time we were by observation in the latitude of 10 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds south. The nearest part of the main, and which we soon after found to be the northernmost, bore west southerly, distant 3 or 4 miles; the islands which formed the passage before mentioned extending from north to north 75 degrees east, distant 2 or 3 miles. At the same time we saw islands at a good distance off extending from north by west to west-northwest, and behind them another chain of high land, which we likewise judged to be islands. The mainland we thought extended as far as north 71 degrees west; but this we found to be islands. The point of the main, which forms one side of the passage before mentioned, and which is the northern promontory of this country, I have named York Cape, in honour of his late Royal Highness, the Duke of York. It lies in the longitude of 218 degrees 24 minutes west, the north point in the latitude of 10 degrees 37 minutes south, and the east point in 10 degrees 41 minutes. The land over and to the southward of this last point is rather low and very flat as far inland as the eye could reach, and looks barren. To the southward of the cape the shore forms a large open bay, which I called Newcastle Bay, wherein are some small, low islands and shoals, and the land all about it is very low, flat, and sandy. The land on the northern part of the cape is rather more hilly, and the shore forms some small bays, wherein there appeared to be good anchorage, and the valleys appeared to be tolerably well clothed with wood. Close to the east point of the cape are 3 small islands, and a small ledge of rocks spitting off from one of them. There is also an island laying close to the north point. The other islands before spoken of lay about 4 miles without these; only two of them are of any extent. The southernmost is the largest, and much higher than any part of the mainland. On the northwest side of this island seemed to be good anchorage, and valleys that to all appearance would afford both wood and fresh water. These isles are known in the chart by the name of York Isles. To the southward and southeast of them, and even to the eastward and northward, are several low islands, rocks, and shoals. Our depth of water in sailing between them and the main was 12, 13, and 14 fathoms.
Wednesday, 22nd August, 1770
Gentle breezes at east by south and clear weather. We had not steered above 3 or 4 miles along shore to the westward before we discovered the land ahead to be islands detached by several channels from the mainland; upon this, we brought to wait for the yawl, and called the other boats on board, and after giving them proper instructions, sent them away again to lead us through the channel next to the main, and as soon as the yawl was on board made sail after them with the ship. Soon after, we discovered rocks and shoals in this channel, upon which I made the signal for the boats to lead through the next channel to the northward laying between the islands, which they accordingly did, we following with the ship, and had not less than 5 fathoms; and this in the narrowest part of the channel, which was about a mile and a half broad from island to island. At 4 o’clock we anchored about a mile and a half or 2 miles within the entrance in 6 and a half fathoms, clear ground, distance from the islands on each side of us one mile, the mainland extending away to the south-west; the farthest point of which we could see bore from us south 48 degrees west, and the southernmost point of the islands, on the northwest side of the passage, bore south 76 degrees west. Between these 2 points we could see no land, so that we were in great hopes that we had at last found out a passage into the Indian seas; but in order to be better informed I landed with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, upon the island which lies at the southeast point of the passage. Before and after we anchored, we saw a number of people upon this island, armed in the same manner as all the others we have seen, except one man, who had a bow and a bundle of arrows, the first we have seen upon this coast. From the appearance of the people we expected they would have opposed our landing; but as we approached the shore they all made off and left us in peaceable possession of as much of the island as served our purpose. After landing I went upon the highest hill, which, however, was of no great height, yet no less than twice or thrice the height of the ship’s mastheads; but I could see from it no land between southwest and west-southwest, so that I did not doubt but there was a passage. I could see plainly that the lands laying to the northwest of this passage were composed of a number of islands of various extent, both for height and circuit, ranged one behind another as far to the northward and westward as I could see, which could not be less than 12 or 14 leagues.
Having satisfied myself of the great probability of a passage, through which I intend going with the ship, and therefore may land no more upon this eastern coast of New Holland, and on the western side I can make no new discovery, the honor of which belongs to the Dutch navigators, but the eastern coast from the latitude of 38 degrees south down to this place, I am confident, was never seen or visited by any European before us; and notwithstanding I had in the name of His Majesty taken possession of several places upon this coast, I now once more hoisted English colors, and in the name of His Majesty King George the Third took possession of the whole eastern coast from the above latitude down to this place by the name of New Wales, together with all the bays, harbors, rivers, and islands, situated upon the said coast; after which we fired 3 volleys of small arms, which were answered by the like number from the ship.
This done, we set out for the ship, but were some time in getting on board on account of a very rapid ebb tide, which set northeast out of the passage. Ever since we came in amongst the shoals this last time we have found a moderate tide; the flood setting to the northwest and ebb to the southeast; at this place is high water at full and change of the moon, about 1 or 2 o’clock, and rises and falls upon a perpendicular about 10 or 12 feet. We saw upon all the adjacent lands and islands a great number of smokes—a certain sign that they are inhabited—and we have daily seen smokes on every part of the coast we have lately been upon. Between 7 and 8 o’clock a.m. we saw several naked people, all or most of them women, down upon the beach picking up shells, etc.; they had not a single rag of any kind of clothing upon them, and both these and those we saw yesterday were in every respect the same sort of people we have seen everywhere upon the coast. Two or 3 of the men we saw yesterday had on pretty large breast plates, which we supposed were made of pearl oyster shells; this was a thing, as well as the bow and arrows, we had not seen before. At low water, which happened about 10 o’clock, we got under sail, and stood to the southwest, with a light breeze at east, which afterward veered to north by east, having the pinnace ahead; depth of water from 6 to 10 fathoms, except in one place, where we passed over a bank of 5 fathoms. At noon Possession Island, at the southeast entrance of the passage, bore north 53 degrees east, distant 4 leagues; the western extreme of the mainland in sight south 43 degrees west, distant 4 or 5 leagues, being all exceedingly low. The southwest point of the largest island on the northwest side of the passage bore north 71 degrees west, distant 8 miles; this point I named Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes south, longitude 218 degrees 59 minutes west), and some low islands lying about the middle of the passage, which I called Wallace’s Isles, bore west by south 1/2 south, distance about 2 leagues. Our latitude by observation was 10 degrees 46 minutes south.