Tuesday, 19th June, 1770
Fresh gales at South-East and cloudy weather, with frequent showers of rain. P.M., landed all the provisions and part of the stores; got the sick ashore, which amounted, at this time, to 8 or 9, afflicted with different disorders, but none very dangerously ill. This afternoon I went upon one of the highest hills over the harbour, from which I had a perfect view of the inlet or river, and adjacent country, which afforded but a very indifferent prospect. The low lands near the river are all overrun with mangroves, among which the salt water flows every tide, and the high land appeared to be barren and stony. A.M., got the 4 remaining guns out of the hold, and mounted them on the quarterdeck; got a spare anchor and stock ashore, and the remaining part of the stores and ballast that were in the hold; set up the forge, and set the armourer and his mate to work to make nails, etc., to repair the ship.
Wednesday, 20th June, 1770
Winds at South-East, a fresh breeze, fore and middle parts rainy, the latter fair. This day got out all the officers’ stores and the ground tier of water, having now nothing in the fore and main hold but the coals and a little stone ballast.
Thursday, 21st June, 1770
P.M., landed the powder, got out the stone ballast, wood, etc., which brought the ship’s draught of water to 8 feet 10 inches forward, and 13 feet abaft. This I thought, by trimming the coals aft, would be sufficient, as I find the tides will rise and fall upon a perpendicular 8 feet at spring tides; but after the coals were trimmed away from over the leak we could hear the water come gushing in a little abaft the foremast about 3 feet from her keel. This determined me to clear the hold entirely; accordingly, very early in the morning we went to work to get out the coals, which was employment for all hands.
Friday, 22nd June, 1770
Winds at South-East, fair weather. At 4 p.m., having got out most of the coals, cast loose the ship’s moorings, and warped her a little higher up the harbour to a place I had pitched upon to lay her ashore to stop the leak; draught of water forward 7 feet 9 inches and abaft 13 feet 6 inches. At 8, being high water, hauled her bow close ashore, but kept her stern afloat, because I was afraid of neaping her, and yet it was necessary to lay the whole of her as near the ground as possible. At 2 a.m. the tide left her, which gave us an opportunity to examine the leak, which we found to be at her floor heads, a little before the starboard fore chains; here the rocks had made their way through 4 planks, quite to, and even into the timbers, and wounded 3 more. The manner these planks were damaged—or cut out, as I may say—is hardly credible; scarce a splinter was to be seen, but the whole was cut away as if it had been done by the hands of man with a blunt-edge tool. Fortunately for us the timbers in this place were very close; otherwise, it would have been impossible to have saved the ship, and even as it was it appeared very extraordinary that she made no more water than what she did. A large piece of coral rock was sticking in one hole, and several pieces of the fothering, small stones, etc., had made their way in, and lodged between the timbers, which had stopped the water from forcing its way in in great quantities. Part of the sheathing was gone from under the larboard bow, part of the false keel was gone, and the remainder in such a shattered condition that we should be much better off if it was gone also; her forefoot and some part of her main keel were also damaged, but not materially. What damage she may have received abaft we could not see, but believe not much, as the ship makes but little water, while the tide keeps below the leak forward. At 9 the carpenters went to work upon the ship, while the armourers were busy making bolts, nails, etc.
Saturday, 23rd June, 1770
Winds southeasterly, a fresh gale and fair weather. Carpenters employed shifting the damaged planks as long as the tide would permit them to work. At low water p.m. we examined the ship’s bottom under the starboard side, she being dry as far aft as the after-part of the fore chains; we could not find that she had received any other damage on this side but what has been mentioned. In the morning I sent 3 men into the country to shoot pigeons, as some of these birds had been seen flying about; in the evening they returned with about 1/2 a dozen. One of the men saw an animal something less than a greyhound; it was of a mouse color, very slender made, and swift of foot. A.M., I sent a boat to haul the seine, who returned at noon, having made 3 hauls and caught only 3 fish; and yet we see them in plenty jumping about the harbor, but can find no method of catching them.
Sunday, 24th June, 1770
Winds and weather as yesterday. P.M., the carpenters finished the starboard side, and at 9 heeled the ship the other way, and hauled her off about 2 feet for fear of neaping. In the a.m. they went to work repairing the sheathing under the larboard bow, where we found 2 planks cut about half through. Early in the morning I sent a party of men into the country under the direction of Lieutenant Gore to seek for refreshments; they returned about noon with a few palm cabbages and a bunch or two of wild plantains; these last were much smaller than any I had ever seen, and the pulp full of small stones; otherwise they were well tasted. I saw myself this morning, a little way from the ship, one of the animals before spoken of; it was of a light mouse color and the full size of a greyhound, and shaped in every respect like one, with a long tail, which it carried like a greyhound; in short, I should have taken it for a wild dog but for its walking or running, in which it jumped like a hare or deer. Another of them was seen today by some of our people, who saw the first; they described them as having very small legs, and the print of the feet like that of a goat; but this I could not see myself because the ground the one I saw was upon was too hard, and the length of the grass hindered my seeing its legs.
Monday, 25th June, 1770
At low water in the p.m. while the carpenters were busy in repairing the sheathing and plank under the larboard bow I got people to go under the ship’s bottom, to examine all her larboard side, she only being dry forward, but abaft were 9 feet water. They found part of the sheathing off abreast of the mainmast about her floor heads, and a part of one plank a little damaged. There were 3 people who went down, who all agreed in the same story; the master was one, who was positive that she had received no material damage besides the loss of the sheathing. This alone will be sufficient to let the worm into her bottom, which may prove of bad consequence. However, we must run all risks, for I know of no method to remedy this but by heaving her down, which would be a work of immense labour and time, if not impractical in our present situation.
The carpenters continued hard at work under her bottom until put off by the tide in the evening, and the morning tide did not ebb out far enough to permit them to work upon her, for here we have only one tolerable low and high tide in 24 hours. A.M., a party of men were employed ashore filling water, while others were employed overhauling the rigging.
Tuesday, 26th June, 1770
Fair weather, a southeast wind, and a fresh gale; at low water p.m. the carpenters finished under the larboard bow and every other place the tide would permit them to come at. Lashed some casks under the ship’s bows in order to help to float her, and at high water in the night attempted to heave her off, but could not, she not being afloat partly owing to some of the casks not holding that were lashed under her. A.M., employed getting more casks ready for the same purpose; but I am much afraid that we shall not be able to float her now the tides are taking off.
Wednesday, 27th June, 1770
A fresh breeze of wind at southeast and cloudy weather. P.M., lashed 38 empty butts under the ship’s bottom in order to float her off, which proved ineffectual, and therefore gave over all hopes of getting her off until the next spring tides. At daylight we got a considerable weight of sundry articles from aft forward to ease the ship; the armourer at work at the forge repairing iron work, etc., carpenters caulking and stocking one of the spare anchors, seamen employed filling of water and overhauling the rigging, and I went in the pinnace up the harbor, and made several hauls with the seine, but caught only between 20 and 30 pounds of fish, which were given to the sick and such as were weak and ailing.
Thursday, 28th June, 1770
Fresh breezes and cloudy. All hands employed as yesterday.
Friday, 29th June, 1770
Wind and weather as yesterday, and the employment of the people the same, Lieutenant Gore having been 4 or 5 miles in the country, where he met with nothing remarkable. He saw the footsteps of men, and likewise those of 3 or 4 sorts of wild beasts, but saw neither man nor beast. Some others of our people who were out yesterday on the north side of the river met with a place where the natives have just been, as their fires were then burning; but they saw nobody, nor have we seen one since we have been in port. In these excursions we found some wild yams or cocos growing in the swampy grounds, and this afternoon I sent a party of men to gather some. The tops we found made good greens, and ate exceedingly well when boiled, but the roots were so bad that few besides myself could eat them. This night Mr. Green and I observed an emersion of Jupiter’s first satellite, which happened at 2 hours 58 minutes 53 seconds in the a.m.; the same immersion happened at Greenwich, according to calculation, on the 30th at 5 hours 17 minutes 43 seconds a.m. The difference is 14 hours 18 minutes 50 seconds, equal to 214 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds of longitude, which this place is west of Greenwich, and its latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes south. A.M., I sent some hands in a boat up the river to haul the seine, while the rest were employed about the rigging and sundry other duties.
Saturday, 30th June, 1770
Moderate breezes at southeast, and clear serene weather. P.M., the boat returned from hauling the seine, having caught as much fish as came to a pound and a half a man. A.M., I sent her again to haul the seine, and some hands to gather greens, while others were employed about the rigging, etc., etc. I likewise sent some of the young gentlemen to take a plan of the harbour, and went myself upon the hill, which is near the south point to take a view of the sea. At this time it was low water, and I saw what gave me no small uneasiness, which were a number of sandbanks and shoals laying all along the coast; the innermost lay about 3 or 4 miles from the shore, and the outermost extended off to sea as far as I could see without my glass, some just appeared above water. The only hopes I have of getting clear of them is to the northward, where there seems to be a passage, for as the wind blows constantly from the southeast we shall find it difficult, if not impractical, to return to the southward.
Sunday, 1st July, 1770
Gentle breezes at southeast, and cloudy weather, with some gentle showers in the morning. P.M., the people returned from hauling the seine, having caught as much fish as came to 2 1/2 pounds per man, no one on board having more than another. The few greens we got I caused to be boiled among the pease, and makes a very good mess, which, together with the fish, is a great refreshment to the people. A.M., a party of men, one from each mess, went again fishing, and all the rest I gave leave to go into the country, knowing that there was no danger from the natives. Today at noon the thermometer in the shade rose to 87 degrees, which is 2 or 3 degrees higher than it hath been on any day before in this place.
Monday, 2nd July, 1770
Ditto weather. P.M., the fishing party caught as much fish as came to 2 pounds a man. Those that were in the country met with nothing new. Early in the a.m. I sent the master in the pinnace out of the harbour, to sound about the shoals in the offing and to look for a channel to the northward. At this time we had a breeze of wind from the land, which continued till about 9. What makes me mention this is, that it is the first land breeze we have had since we have been in this river. At low water lashed empty casks under the ship’s bows, being in some hopes of floating her the next high water, and sent some hands fishing, while others were employed in refitting the ship.
Tuesday, 3rd July, 1770
Winds at southeast, fore and middle part gentle breeze, the remainder a fresh gale. In the evening the fishing party returned, having got as much fish as came to 2 pounds a man. At high water we attempted to heave the ship off, but did not succeed. At noon the master returned, and reported he had found a passage out to sea between the shoals, which passage lies out east-northeast or east by north from the river mouth. He found these shoals to consist of coral rocks; he landed upon one, which dries at low water, where he found very large cockles and a variety of other shellfish, a quantity of which he brought away with him. He told me that he was 5 leagues out at sea, having at that distance 21 fathoms water, and judged himself to be without all the shoals, which I very much doubted. After this he came inshore, and stood to the northward, where he met with a number of shoals laying a little distance from the shore. About 9 in the evening he landed in a bay about 3 leagues to the northward of this place, where he disturbed some of the natives, whom he supposed to be at supper; they all fled upon his approach, and left him some fresh sea eggs, and a fire ready lighted behind them; but there was neither house nor hut near. Although these shoals lay within sight of the coast, and abound very much with shellfish and other small fish, which are to be caught at low water in holes in the rocks, yet the natives never visit them, for if they did we must have seen of these large shells on shore about their fireplaces. The reason I do suppose is, that they have no boats that they dare venture so far out at sea in.
Wednesday, 4th July, 1770
Strong gales at southeast and fair weather. P.M., the fishing party returned with the usual success; at high water hove the ship afloat. A.M., employed trimming her upon an even keel, intending to lay her ashore once more, to come at her bottom under the larboard main chains.
Thursday, 5th July, 1770
Strong breezes at southeast and fair weather. P.M. warped the ship over, and at high water laid her ashore on the sandbank on the south side of the river, for I was afraid to lay her broad side to the shore where she lay before, because the ground lies upon too great a decent, and she hath already received some damage by laying there these last neap tides, at least she still makes water.
Friday, 6th July, 1770
Ditto weather. At low water in the p.m. had hardly 4 feet water under the ship; yet could not repair the sheathing that was beaten off, the place being all underwater. One of the carpenter’s crew, a man I could trust, went down and examined it, and found 3 streaks of the sheathing gone about 7 or 8 feet long, and the main plank a little rubbed; this account agrees with the report of the master and others that were under her bottom before. The carpenter, who I look upon to be well skilled in his profession, and a good judge in these matters, was of opinion that this was of little consequence; and as I found that it would be difficult, if not impractical, for us to get under her bottom to repair it, I resolved to spend no more time about it. Accordingly, at high water, we hove her off, and moored her alongside the beach, where the stores, etc., lay, and in the a.m. got everything in readiness for taking them on board, and at the same time got on board 8 tons of water, and stowed it in the ground tier in the after hold. In the morning Mr. Banks and Lieutenant Gore with 3 men went in a small boat up the harbour, with a view to stay 2 or 3 days to try to kill some of the animals we have seen about this place.
Saturday, 7th July, 1770
Fresh breezes at southeast and fair weather. Employed getting on board coals, ballast, etc., and caulking the ship; a work that could not be done while she lay aground. The armourer and his mate are still employed at the forge making and repairing sundry articles in the iron way.
Sunday, 8th July, 1770
Gentle breeze and southeast, and clear weather. Early I sent the master in a boat out to sea to sound again about the shoals, because the account he had given of the channel before mentioned was to me by no means satisfactory; likewise sent some hands to haul the seine, who caught near 80 pounds of fish; the rest of the people I gave leave to go into the country.
Monday, 9th July, 1770
In the day ditto winds, but in the night calm. P.M., Mr. Gore and Mr. Banks returned, having met with nothing remarkable; they were about 3 or 4 leagues up in the country without finding hardly any variation either in the soil or produce. In the evening the master returned, having been several leagues out at sea, and at that distance off saw shoals without him, and was of opinion there was no getting out to sea that way. In his return, he touched upon one of the shoals, the same as he was upon the first time he was out; he here saw a great number of turtle, 3 of which he caught weighing 791 pounds. This occasioned my sending him out again this morning provided with proper gear for striking them, he having before nothing but a boat hook. Carpenters, smiths, and coopers at their respective employments, and the seamen employed getting on board stones, ballast, etc. This day all hands feasted upon turtle for the first time.
Tuesday, 10th July, 1770
Winds and weather as yesterday. Employed hoisting on board and stowing away the ground tier of water. P.M., saw 7 or 8 of the natives on the south side of the river, and 2 of them came down upon the sandy point opposite the ship; but as soon as I put off in a boat in order to speak with them they ran away as fast as they could. At 11 Mr. Banks, who had gone out to sea with Mr. Molineux, the master, returned in his own small boat, and gave but a very bad account of our turtle catchers. At the time he left them, which was about 6 o’clock, they had not got one, nor were they likely to get any; and yet the master was so obstinate that he would not return, which obliged me to send Mr. Gore out in the yawl this morning to order the boat and people in, in case they could not be employed there to some advantage. In the a.m. 4 of the natives came down to the sandy point on the north side of the harbour, having along with them a small wooden canoe with outriggers, in which they seemed to be employed striking fish, etc. Some were for going over in a boat to them; but this I would not suffer, but let them alone without seeming to take any notice of them. At length 2 of them came in the canoe so near the ship as to take some things we threw them. After this they went away, and brought over the other 2, and came again alongside, nearer than they had done before, and took such trifles as we gave them; after this they landed close to the ship, and all 4 went ashore, carrying their arms with them. But Tupia soon prevailed upon them to lay down their arms, and come and sit down by him, after which most of us went to them, made them again some presents, and stayed by them until dinner time, when we made them understand that we were going to eat, and asked them by signals to go with us; but this they declined, and as soon as we left them they went away in their canoe. One of these men was something above the middle age, the other 3 were young; none of them were above 5 1/2 feet high, and all their limbs proportionately small. They were wholly naked, their skins the colour of wood soot, and this seemed to be their natural colour. Their hair was black, lank, and cropped short, and neither woolly nor frizzled; nor did they want any of their fore teeth, as Dampier has mentioned those did he saw on the western side of this country. Some parts of their bodies had been painted with red, and one of them had his upper lip and breast painted with streaks of white, which he called carbanda. Their features were far from being disagreeable; their voices were soft and tunable, and they could easily repeat any word after us, but neither us nor Tupia could understand one word they said.
Wednesday, 11th July, 1770
Gentle land and sea breezes. Employed airing the bread, stowing away water, stores, etc. In the night the master and Mr. Gore returned with the longboat, and brought with them one turtle and a few shellfish; the yawl Mr. Gore left upon the shoal with 6 men to endeavour to strike more turtle. In the morning 4 of the natives made us another short visit; 3 of them had been with us the preceding day, the other was a stranger. One of these men had a hole through the bridge of his nose, in which he stuck a piece of bone as thick as my finger. Seeing this we examined all their noses, and found that they had all holes for the same purpose; they had likewise holes in their ears, but no ornaments hanging to them; they had bracelets on their arms made of hair, and like hoops of small cord. They sometimes may wear a kind of fillet about their heads, for one of them had applied some part of an old shirt which I had given them to this use.
Thursday, 12th July, 1770
Winds and weather as yesterday, and the employment of the people the same. At 2 a.m. the yawl came on board, and brought 3 turtle and a large skate, and as there was a probability of succeeding in this kind of fishery, I sent her out again after breakfast. About this time 5 of the natives came over and stayed with us all the forenoon. There were 7 in all—5 men, 1 woman, and a boy; these 2 last stayed on the point of land on the other side of the river about 200 yards from us. We could very clearly see with our glasses that the woman was as naked as ever she was born; even those parts which I always before now thought nature would have taught a woman to conceal were uncovered.
Friday, 13th July, 1770
Gentle breezes from the southeast in day, and calm or light airs from the land in the night. Employed taking on board water, stores, etc. At noon the yawl returned with one turtle and a large stingray.
Saturday, 14th July, 1770
Gentle breezes at southeast and hazy weather. In the p.m. completed our water; got on board all the bread, and part of our stores; in the evening sent the turtlers out again. A.M., employed getting on board stone ballast and airing the spare sails. Mr. Gore, being in the country, shot one of the animals before spoken of; it was a small one of the sort, weighing only 28 pounds clear of the entrails; its body was long; the head, neck, and shoulders very small in proportion to the other parts. It was hair-lipped, and the head and ears were most like a hare’s of any animal I know; the tail was nearly as long as the body, thick next the rump, and tapering towards the end; the forelegs were 8 inches long, and the hind 22. Its progression is by hopping or jumping 7 or 8 feet at each hop upon its hind legs only, for in this it makes no use of the fore, which seem to be only designed for scratching in the ground, etc. The skin is covered with a short, hairy fur of a dark mouse or grey colour. It bears no sort of resemblance to any European animal I ever saw; it is said to bear much resemblance to the jerboa, excepting in size, the jerboa being no larger than a common rat.
Sunday, 15th July, 1770
Gentle breezes at southeast and east. P.M., got on board the spare sails and sundry other articles. In the a.m., as the people did not work upon the ship, one of the petty officers was desirous of going out to catch turtles. I let him have the pinnace for that purpose, and sent the longboat to haul the seine, who caught about 60 fish.
Monday, 16th July, 1770
Fore and latter parts gentle breezes at east-northeast; in the night had light airs and calm. In the evening the yawl came in with 4 turtle and a large stingray, and soon after went out again; but the pinnace did not return as I expected. A.M., employed getting on board cables; at the same time I went upon one of the high hills on the north side of the river, from which I had an extensive view of the inland country, which consisted of hills, valleys, and large plains, agreeably diversified with woods and lawns.
Tuesday, 17th July, 1770
Wind at southeast, a fresh breeze; people employed as yesterday setting up the rigging. In the evening the pinnace returned with 3 turtles, 2 of which the yawl caught and sent in. At 7 hours 41 minutes 17 seconds p.m. observed the first satellite of Jupiter to emerge, and the same immersion happened at Greenwich at 10 hours 00 minutes 52 seconds in the a.m.; the difference is 14 hours 19 minutes 35 seconds equal to 214 degrees 53 minutes 45 seconds of longitude. The observation made on the 29th of last month gave 214 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds; the mean is 214 degrees 48 minutes 7 1/2 seconds, which this place is west of Greenwich.
Wednesday, 18th July, 1770
Wind at east-southeast, a gentle breeze. P.M., I sent the master and one of the mates in the pinnace to the northward to look for a channel that way clear of the shoal. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and I took a turn into the woods on the other side of the water, where we met with 5 of the natives; and although we had not seen any of them before, they came to us without showing any signs of fear. Two of these wore necklaces made of shells, which they seemed to value, as they would not part with them. In the evening the yawl came in with 3 turtle, and early in the A.M. she went out again. About 8 we were visited by several of the natives, who now became more familiar than ever. Soon after this Mr. Banks and I went over to the south side of the river, and traveled 6 or 8 miles along shore to the northward, where we ascended a high hill, from whence I had an extensive view of the sea coast; it afforded us a melancholy prospect of the difficulties we are to encounter, for in whatever direction we looked it was covered with shoals as far as the eye could see; after this we returned to the ship without meeting with anything remarkable, and found several of the natives on board. At this time we had 12 tortoise or turtle upon our decks, which they took more notice of than anything else in the ship, as I was told by the officers, for their curiosity was satisfied before I got on board, and they went away soon after.
Thursday, 19th July, 1770
Gentle breezes and fair weather. Employed getting everything in readiness for sea. A.M., we were visited by 10 or 11 of the natives; most of them came from the other side of the harbor, where we saw 6 or 7 more, most of them women, and, like the men, quite naked. Those that came on board were very desirous of having some of our turtles, and took the liberty to haul 2 of them to the gangway to put over the side; being disappointed in this, they grew a little troublesome, and were for throwing everything overboard they could lay their hands upon. As we had no victuals dressed at this time, I offered them some bread to eat, which they rejected with scorn, as I believe they would have done anything else excepting turtle; soon after this they all went ashore, Mr. Banks, myself, and 5 or 6 of our people being there at the same time. Immediately upon their landing one of them took a handful of dry grass and lighted it at a fire we had ashore, and before we well knew what he was about he made a large circuit around us, and set fire to the grass in his way, and in an instant the whole place was in flames. Luckily at this time we had hardly anything ashore, besides the forge and a sow with a litter of young pigs, one of which was scorched to death in the fire. As soon as they had done this they all went to a place where some of our people were washing, and where all our nets and a good deal of linen were laid out to dry; here with the greatest obstinacy they again set fire to the grass, which I and some others who were present could not prevent, until I was obliged to fire a musket load with small shot at one of the ringleaders, which sent them off. As we were apprised of this last attempt of theirs we got the fire out before it got head, but the first spread like wildfire in the woods and grass. Notwithstanding my firing, in which one must have been a little hurt, because we saw a few drops of blood on some of the linen he had gone over, they did not go far from us; for we soon after heard their voices in the woods, upon which Mr. Banks and I and 3 or 4 more went to look for them, and very soon met them coming toward us. As they had each 4 or 5 darts, and not knowing their intention, we seized upon 6 or 7 of the first darts we met with. This alarmed them so much that they all made off, and we followed them for near 1/2 a mile, and then sat down and called to them, and they stopped also; after some little unintelligible conversation had passed they laid down their darts, and came to us in a very friendly manner. We now returned the darts we had taken from them, which reconciled everything. There were 4 strangers among them that we had not seen before, and these were introduced to us by name by the others; the man which we supposed to have been struck with small shot was gone off, but he could not be much hurt as he was at a great distance when I fired. They all came along with us abreast of the ship, where they stayed a short time, and then went away, and soon after set the woods on fire about a mile and a half or two miles from us.
Friday, 20th July, 1770
Fresh breezes at southeast and cloudy weather. P.M., got everything on board the ship, new berthed her, and let her swing with the tide. In the night the master returned with the pinnace, and reported that there was no safe passage for the ship to the northward at low water. A.M., I went and sounded and buoyed the bar, being now ready to put to sea the first opportunity.
Saturday, 21st July, 1770
Strong breezes at southeast and cloudy weather. P.M., sent a boat to haul the seine, which returned with as much fish as came to 1 3/4 pounds per man; the yawl returned with only one turtle, which was caught in the net, for it blew too hard for the boat to strike any. In the morning I sent her out again, but she was obliged to return, not being able to get to windward. The carpenters employed in repairing the boats and overhauling the pumps, and as the wind would not permit us to sail, I sent the boatswain with some hands ashore to make rope, and a petty officer with 2 men to gather greens for the ship’s company.
Sunday, 22nd July, 1770
Fresh breezes at southeast and east-southeast. Employed as yesterday. A.M., the weather would not permit us to sail; sent the turtlers out again. In opening one today we found sticking through both shoulder bones a wood harpoon, or turtle peg, 15 inches long, bearded at the end, such as we have seen among the natives; this proves to a demonstration that they strike turtle, I suppose at the time they come ashore to lay their eggs, for they certainly have no boat fit to do this at sea, or that will carry a turtle, and this harpoon must have been a good while in, as the wound was quite healed up.
Monday, 23rd July, 1770
Fresh breezes in the southeast quarter, which so long as it continues will confine us in port. Yesterday, A.M., I sent some people in the country to gather greens, one of which straggled from the rest, and met with 4 of the natives by a fire, on which they were broiling a fowl, and the hind leg of one of the animals before spoken of. He had the presence of mind not to run from them (being unarmed), lest they should pursue him, but went and sat down by them; and after he had sat a little while, and they had felt his hands and other parts of his body, they suffered him to go away without offering the least insult, and perceiving that he did not go right for the ship they directed him which way to go.
Tuesday, 24th July, 1770
Winds and weather continues. The seamen employed making ropes, caulking the ship, fishing, etc.
Wednesday, 25th July, 1770
Fresh gales at southeast and fair weather. In the evening the yawl came in, having not been able to strike one turtle on account of the blowing weather, nor can we catch much fish with the seine in the harbor.
Thursday, 26th July, 1770
Winds and weather as yesterday. Such people as can be spared from the necessary duties of the ship are employed fishing and gathering greens and other refreshments.
Friday, 27th July, 1770
Very fresh gales at southeast by south and fair weather. A.M., caught as much fish as served 3/4 pounds a man, and Mr. Gore shot one of the animals before spoken of, which weighed 80 pounds and 54 pounds, exclusive of the entrails, skin, and head; this was as large as the most we have seen.
Saturday, 28th July, 1770
Winds and weather as above, without the least variation the whole of the 24 hours. The carpenters finished caulking the ship.
Sunday, 29th July, 1770
Winds at southeast, a fresh breeze until 5 a.m., at which time it fell calm, and soon after had a light breeze from the land. Upon this I sent a boat to see what water was upon the bar (it being 2 hours ebb), and hove up the anchor in order to put to sea; but upon the return of the boat came to again, as there were only 13 feet water on the bar, which was 6 inches less water than what the ship drew. After this I sent the yawl to look for turtle, as those we had got before were nearly all expended. About 8 the sea breeze set in again, which put an end to our sailing this day; after which I sent the pinnace to haul the seine; she returned with only 20 pounds of fish.
Monday, 30th July, 1770
Winds at southeast, a fresh gale and fair weather in the P.M., the remainder hazy, with rain, but the winds, though more moderate, kept in the southeast quarter.
Tuesday, 31st July, 1770
Fresh gales at southeast, and hazy with rain all P.M. and most part of the night. At 2 a.m. I had thoughts of trying to warp the ship out of the harbor, but upon my going first out in a boat I found it blew too fresh for such an attempt.
Wednesday, 1st August, 1770
Strong gales from the southeast, with squalls attended with rain. P.M., the yawl came in with 2 rays, which together weighed 265 pounds; it blew too hard all the time they were out for striking turtle. Carpenters employed overhauling the pumps, all of which we find in a state of decay; and this the carpenter says is owing to the sap having been left in, which in time has decayed the sound wood. One of them is quite useless, and was so rotten when hoisted up as to drop to pieces. However, I cannot complain of a leaky ship, for the most water she makes is not quite an inch an hour.
Thursday, 2nd August, 1770
Winds and weather as yesterday, or rather more stormy; we have now no success in the seine fishing, hardly getting above 20 or 30 pounds a day.
Friday, 3rd August, 1770
Strong breezes, and hazy until 6 a.m., when it moderated, and we unmoored, hove up the anchor, and began to warp out; but the ship tailing upon the sand on the north side of the river, the tide of ebb making out, and a fresh breeze setting in, we were obliged to desist and moor the ship again just within the bar.
Saturday, 4th August, 1770
In the p.m., having pretty moderate weather, I ordered the coasting anchor and cable to be laid without the bar, to be ready to warp out by, that we might not lose the least opportunity that might offer; for laying in port spends time to no purpose, consumes our provisions, of which we are very short in many articles, and we have yet a long passage to make to the East Indies through an unknown and perhaps dangerous sea; these circumstances considered, make me very anxious of getting to sea. The wind continued moderate all night, and at 5 a.m. it fell calm; this gave us an opportunity to warp out. About 7 we got under sail, having a light air from the land, which soon died away, and was succeeded by the sea breezes from southeast by south, with which we stood off to sea east by north, having the pinnace ahead sounding. The yawl I sent to the turtle bank to take up the net that was left there; but as the wind freshened we got out before her, and a little after noon anchored in 15 fathoms water, sandy bottom, for I did not think it safe to run in among the shoals until I had well viewed them at low water from the masthead, that I might be better able to judge which way to steer; for as yet I had not resolved whether I should beat back to the southward round all the shoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or northward, all of which appeared to be equally difficult and dangerous. When at anchor the harbour sailed from bore south 70 degrees west, distant 4 or 5 leagues; the northernmost point of the mainland we have in sight, which I named Cape Bedford (latitude 15 degrees 17 minutes south, longitude 214 degrees 45 minutes west), bore north 20 degrees west, distant 3 1/2 leagues; but we could see land to the northeast of this cape, which made like 2 high islands; the Turtle banks bore east, distant one mile. Latitude by observation 15 degrees 23 minutes south; our depth of water, in standing off from the land, was from 3 1/2 to 15 fathoms.
I shall now give a short description of the harbour, or river, we have been in, which I named after the ship, Endeavour River. It is only a small bar harbour or creek, which runs winding 3 or 4 leagues inland, at the head of which is a small freshwater brook, as I was told, for I was not so high myself; but there is not water for shipping above a mile within the bar, and this is on the north side, where the bank is so steep for nearly a quarter of a mile that ships may lay afloat at low water so near the shore as to reach it with a stage, and is extremely convenient for heaving a ship down. And this is all the river has to recommend it, especially for large shipping, for there is no more than 9 or 10 feet water upon the bar at low water, and 17 or 18 feet at high, the tides rising and falling about 9 feet at spring tide, and is high on the days of the new and full moon, between 9 and 10 o’clock. Besides, this part of the coast is barricaded with shoals, as to make this harbour more difficult of access; the safest way I know of to come at it is from the south, keeping the mainland close on board all the way. Its situation may always be found by the latitude, which has been before mentioned. Over the south point is some high land, but the north point is formed by a low sandy beach, which extends about 3 miles to the northward, then the land is again high.
The refreshments we got here were chiefly turtle, but as we had to go 5 leagues out to sea for them, and had much blowing weather, we were not overstocked with this article; however, what with these and the fish we caught with the seine we had not much reason to complain, considering the country we were in. Whatever refreshment we got that would bear a division I caused to be equally divided among the whole company, generally by weight; the meanest person in the ship had an equal share with myself or anyone on board, and this method every commander of a ship on such a voyage as this ought ever to observe. We found in several places on the sandy beaches and sand hills near the sea, purslane and beans, which grows on a creeping kind of a vine. The first we found very good when boiled, and the latter not to be despised, and were at first very serviceable to the sick; but the best greens we found here was the taro, or coco tops, called in the West Indies Indian kale, which grows in most boggy places; these eat as well as, or better, than spinach. The roots, for want of being transplanted and properly cultivated, were not good, yet we could have dispensed with them could we have got them in any tolerable plenty; but having a good way to go for them, it took up too much time and too many hands to gather both root and branch. The few cabbage palms we found here were in general small, and yielded so little cabbage that they were not worth the looking after, and this was the case with most of the fruit, etc., we found in the woods.
Besides the animals which I have before mentioned, called by the natives kangaroo, or kanguru, here are wolves, possums, an animal like a rat, and snakes, both of the venomous and other sorts. Tame animals here are none except dogs, and of these we never saw but one, who frequently came about our tents to pick up bones, etc. The kangaroo are in the greatest number, for we seldom went into the country without seeing some. The land fowls we met here, which far from being numerous, were crows, kites, hawks, cockatoos of 2 sorts, the one white, and the other brown, very beautiful lorikeets of 2 or 3 sorts, pigeons, doves, and a few other sorts of small birds. The sea or water fowl are herons, whistling ducks, which perch and, I believe, roost on trees; curlews, etc., and not many of these neither. Some of our gentlemen who were in the country heard and saw wild geese in the night.
The country, as far as I could see, is diversified with hills and plains, and these with woods and lawns; the soil of the hills is hard, dry, and very stony; yet it produces a thin coarse grass, and some wood. The soil of the plains and valleys is sandy, and in some places clay, and in many parts very rocky and stony, as well as the hills, but in general the land is pretty well clothed with long grass, wood, shrubs, etc. The whole country abounds with an immense number of ant hills, some of which are 6 or 8 feet high, and more than twice that in circuit. Here are but few sorts of trees besides the gum tree, which is the most numerous, and is the same that we found on the southern part of the coast, only here they do not grow near so large. On each side of the river, all the way up it, are mangroves, which extend in some places a mile from its banks; the country in general is not badly watered, there being several fine rivulets at no very great distance from one another, but none near to the place where we lay; at least not in the dry season, which is at this time. However, we were very well supplied with water by springs which were not far off.
Sunday, 5th August
In the p.m. had a gentle breeze at southeast and clear weather. As I did not intend to weigh until the morning I sent all the boats to the reef to get what turtle and shellfish they could. At low water from the masthead I took a view of the shoals, and could see several laying a long way without this one, a part of several of them appearing above water; but as it appeared pretty clear of shoals to the northeast of the Turtle Reef, I came to a resolution to stretch out that way close upon a wind, because if we found no passage we could always return back the way we went. In the evening the boats returned with one turtle, a stingray, and as many large clams as came to 1 1/2 pounds a man; in each of these clams were about 20 pounds of meat; added to this we caught in the night several sharks. Early in the morning I sent the pinnace and yawl again to the reef, as I did not intend to weigh until half ebb, at which time the shoals began to appear. Before 8 it came on to blow, and I made the signal for the boats to come on board, which they did, and brought with them one turtle. We afterwards began to heave, but the wind freshening obliged us to bear away again and lay fast.
Monday, 6th August, 1770
Winds at southeast. At 2 o’clock p.m. it fell pretty moderate, and we got under sail, and stood out upon a wind northeast by east, leaving the Turtle Reef to windward, having the pinnace ahead sounding. We had not stood out long before we discovered shoals ahead and on both bows. At half past 4 o’clock, having run off 8 miles, the pinnace made the signal for shoal water in a place where we little expected it; upon this we tacked and stood on and off while the pinnace stretched farther to the eastward, but as night was approaching I thought it safest to anchor, which we accordingly did in 20 fathoms water, a muddy bottom. Endeavour River bore south 52 degrees west; Cape Bedford west by north 1/2 north, distant 5 leagues; the northernmost land in sight, which made like an island, north; and a shoal, a small, sandy part of which appeared above water, northeast, distance 2 or 3 miles. In standing off from this Turtle Reef to this place our soundings were from 14 to 20 fathoms, but where the pinnace was, about a mile farther to the east-northeast, were no more than 4 or 5 feet of water, rocky ground; and yet this did not appear to us in the ship. In the morning we had a strong gale from the southeast, that, instead of weighing as we intended, we were obliged to bear away more cable, and to strike topgallant yards.
Tuesday, 7th August, 1770
Strong gales at southeast, southeast by south, and south-southeast, with cloudy weather at low water in the p.m. I and several of the officers kept a lookout at the masthead to see for a passage between the shoals; but we could see nothing but breakers all the way from the south round by the east as far as northwest, extending out to sea as far as we could see. It did not appear to be one continued shoal, but several laying detached from each other. On the easternmost that we could see the sea broke very high, which made one judge it to be the outermost; for on many of those within the sea did not break high at all, and from about 1/2 flood to 1/2 ebb they are not to be seen, which makes the sailing among them more dangerous, and requires great care and circumspection, for, like all other shoals, or reefs of coral rocks, they are quite steep too. Although the most of these shoals consist of coral rocks, yet a part of some of them is sand. The Turtle Reef and some others have a small patch of sand generally at the north end, that is only covered at high water. These generally discover themselves before we come near them. Although I speak of this as the Turtle Reef, yet it is not to be doubted but what there are turtle upon most of them as well as this one. After having well viewed our situation from the masthead, I saw that we were surrounded on every side with dangers, in so much that I was quite at a loss which way to steer when the weather will permit us to get under sail, for to beat back to the southeast the way we came, as the master would have had me done, would be an endless piece of work, as the winds blow constantly from that quarter, and very strong, without hardly any intermission; on the other hand, if we do not find a passage to the northward we shall have to come back at last. At 11 the ship drove, and obliged us to bear away to a cable and one third, which brought us up again; but in the morning the gale increasing, she drove again. This made us let go the small bower anchor, and bear away a whole cable on it and 2 on the other; and even after this she still kept driving slowly, until we had got down topgallant masts, struck yards and topmasts close down, and made all snug; then she rode fast, Cape Bedford bearing west-southwest, distant 3 1/2 leagues. In this situation we had shoals to the eastward of us extending from the southeast by south to the north-northwest, distant from the nearest part of them about 2 miles.
Wednesday, 8th August, 1770
Strong gales at south-southeast all this day, in so much that I durst not get up yards and topmasts.
Thursday, 9th. In the p.m., the weather being something moderate, we got up the topmasts, but kept the lower yards down. At 6 in the morning we began to heave in the cable, thinking to get under sail; but it blew so fresh, together with a head sea, that we could hardly heave the ship ahead, and at last was obliged to desist.
Friday, 10th August, 1770
Fresh gales at south-southeast and southeast by south. P.M., the wind fell so that we got up the small bower anchor, and hove into a whole cable on the best bower. At 3 in the morning we got up the lower yards, and at 7 weighed and stood in for the land (intending to seek for a passage along shore to the northward), having a boat ahead sounding; depth of water as we ran in from 19 to 12 fathoms. After standing in an hour we edged away for 3 small islands that lay north-northeast 1/2 east, 3 leagues from Cape Bedford. To these islands the master had been in the pinnace when the ship was in port. At 9 we were abreast of them, and between them and the main, having another low island between us and the latter, which lies west-northwest, 4 miles from the 3 islands. In this channel had 14 fathoms water; the northernmost point of the main we had in sight bore from us north-northwest 1/2 west, distant 2 leagues. 4 or 5 leagues to the northeast of this headland appeared 3 high islands, with some smaller ones near them, and the shoals and reefs without, as we could see, extending to the northward as far as these islands. We directed our course between them and the above headland, leaving a small island to the eastward of us, which lies north by east, 4 miles from the 3 islands, having all the while a boat ahead sounding. At noon we were got between the headland and the 3 high islands, distant from the former 2, and from the latter 4 leagues; our latitude by observation was 14 degrees 51 minutes south. We now judged ourselves to be clear of all danger, having, as we thought, a clear, open sea before us; but this we soon found otherwise, and occasioned my calling the headland above mentioned Cape Flattery (latitude 14 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude 214 degrees 43 minutes west). It is a high promontory, making in 2 hills next the sea, and a third behind them, with low sandy land on each side; but it is better known by the 3 high islands out at sea, the northernmost of which is the largest, and lies from the cape north-northeast, distant 5 leagues. From this cape the mainland trends away northwest and northwest by west.
Saturday, 11th August, 1770
Fresh breezes at south-southeast and southeast by south, with which we steered along shore northwest by west until one o’clock, when the petty officer at the masthead called out that he saw land ahead, extending quite round to the islands without, and a large reef between us and them; upon this I went to the masthead myself. The reef I saw very plain, which was now so far to windward that we could not weather it, but what he took for mainland ahead were only small islands, for such they appeared to me; but, before I had well got from masthead the master and some others went up, who all asserted that it was a continuation of the mainland, and, to make it still more alarming, they said they saw breakers in a manner all round us. We immediately hauled upon a wind in for the land, and made the signal for the boat, which was ahead sounding, to come on board; but as she was well to leeward, we were obliged to edge away to take her up, and soon after came to an anchor under a point of the main in 1/4 less 5 fathoms, about a mile from the shore, Cape Flattery bearing southeast, distant 3 1/2 leagues. After this I landed, and went upon the point, which is pretty high, from which I had a view of the sea coast, which trended away northwest by west, 8 or 10 leagues, which was as far as I could see, the weather not being very clear. I likewise saw 9 or 10 small, low islands and some shoals laying off the coast, and some large shoals between the main and the 3 high islands, without which, I was now well assured, were islands, and not a part of the mainland as some had taken them to be. Excepting Cape Flattery and the point I am now upon, which I have named Point Lookout, the mainland next the sea to the northward of Cape Bedford is low, and chequered with white sand and green bushes, etc., for 10 or 12 miles inland, beyond which is high land. To the northward of Point Lookout the shore appeared to be shoal and flat some distance off, which was no good sign of meeting with a channel in with the land, as we have hitherto done. We saw the footsteps of people upon the sand, and smoke and fire up in the country, and in the evening returned on board, where I came to a resolution to visit one of the high islands in the offing in my boat, as they lay at least 5 leagues out at sea, and seemed to be of such a height that from the top of one of them I hoped to see and find a passage out to sea clear of the shoals. Accordingly in the morning I set out in the pinnace for the northernmost and largest of the 3, accompanied by Mr. Banks. At the same time I sent the master in the yawl to leeward, to sound between the low islands and the main. In my way to the island I passed over a large reef of coral rocks and sand, which lies about 2 leagues from the island; I left another to leeward, which lays about 3 miles from the island. On the north part of this is a low, sandy isle, with trees upon it; on the reef we passed over in the boat we saw several turtle, and chased one or two, but caught none, it blowing too hard, and I had no time to spare, being otherwise employed. I did not reach the island until half an hour after one o’clock in the p.m.
Sunday, 12th August, 1770
When I immediately went upon the highest hill on the island, where, to my mortification, I discovered a reef of rocks laying about 2 or 3 leagues without the island, extending in a line northwest and southeast, farther than I could see, on which the sea broke very high. This, however, gave one great hopes that they were the outermost shoals, as I did not doubt but what I should be able to get without them, for there appeared to be several breaks or partitions in the reef, and deep water between it and the islands. I stayed upon the hill until near sunset, but the weather continued so hazy all the time that I could not see above 4 or 5 leagues round me, so that I came down much disappointed in the prospect I expected to have had, but being in hopes the morning might prove clearer, and give me a better view of the shoals. With this view I stayed all night upon the island, and at 3 in the morning sent the pinnace, with one of the mates I had with me, to sound between the island and the reefs, and to examine one of the breaks or channels; and in the meantime I went again upon the hill, where I arrived by sunrise, but found it much hazier than in the evening. About noon the pinnace returned, having been out as far as the reef, and found from 15 to 28 fathoms water. It blew so hard that they dared not venture into one of the channels, which, the mate said, seemed to him to be very narrow; but this did not discourage me, for I thought from the place he was at he must have seen it at a disadvantage. Before I quit this island I shall describe it. It lies, as I have before observed, about 5 leagues from the main; it is about 8 miles in circuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen 10 or 12 leagues; it is mostly high land, very rocky and barren, except on the northwest side, where there are some sandy bays and low land, which last is covered with thin, long grass, trees, etc., the same as upon the main. Here is also fresh water in 2 places; the one is a running stream, the water a little brackish where I tasted it, which was close to the sea; the other is a standing pool, close behind the sandy beach, of good, sweet water, as I daresay the other is a little way from the sea beach. The only land animals we saw here were lizards, and these seemed to be pretty plenty, which occasioned my naming the island Lizard Island. The inhabitants of the main visit this island at some seasons of the year, for we saw the ruins of several of their huts and heaps of shells, etc. Southeast, 4 or 5 miles from this island, lay the other 2 high islands, which are very small compared to this; and near them lay 3 others, yet smaller and lower islands, and several shoals or reefs, especially to the southeast. There is, however, a clear passage from Cape Flattery to those islands, and even quite out to the outer reefs, leaving the above islands to the southeast and Lizard Island to the northwest.
Monday, 13th August, 1770
At 2 p.m. I left Lizard Island in order to return to the ship, and in my way landed upon the low sandy isle mentioned in coming out. We found on this island a pretty number of birds, most of them sea fowl, except eagles; 2 of the latter we shot and some of the others; we likewise saw some turtles, but got none, for the reasons before mentioned. After leaving Eagle Isle I stood southwest direct for the ship, sounding all the way, and had not less than 8 fathoms, nor more than 14. I had the same depth of water between Lizard and Eagle Isle. After I got on board the master informed me he had been down to the islands I had directed him to go to, which he judged to lay about 3 leagues from the main, and had sounded the channel between the 2, found 7 fathoms; this was near the islands, for in with the main he had only 9 feet 3 miles off, but without the islands he found 10, 12, and 14 fathoms. He found upon the islands piles of turtle shells, and some fins that were so fresh that both he and the boats’ crew ate of them. This showed that the natives must have been there lately. After well considering both what I had seen myself and the report of the master, I found by experience that by keeping in with the mainland we should be in continued danger, besides the risk we should run in being locked in with shoals and reefs by not finding a passage out to leeward. In case we persevered in keeping the shore on board, an accident of this kind, or any other that might happen to the ship, would infallibly lose our passage to the East Indies this season, and might prove the ruin of both ourselves and the voyage, as we have now little more than 3 months’ provisions on board, and that at short allowance. Wherefore, after consulting with the officers, I resolved to weigh in the morning, and endeavor to quit the coast altogether until such time as I found I could approach it with less danger. With this view we got under sail at daylight in the morning, and stood out northeast for the northwest end of Lizard Island, having Eagle Island to windward of us, having the pinnace ahead sounding; and here we found a good channel, wherein we had from 9 to 14 fathoms. At noon the north end of Lizard Island bore east-southeast, distant one mile; latitude observed 14 degrees 38 minutes south; depth of water 14 fathoms. We now took the pinnace in tow, knowing that there were no dangers until we got out to the reefs.