Thursday, 19th April, 1770
In the p.m. had fresh gales at south-south-west and cloudy squally weather, with a large southerly sea; at 6 took in the topsails, and at 1 a.m. brought too and sounded, but had no ground with 130 fathoms of line. At 5, set the topsails close reef’d, and 6, saw land extending from north-east to west, distance 5 or 6 leagues, having 80 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. We continued standing to the westward with the wind at south-south-west until 8, at which time we got topgallant yards a cross, made all sail, and bore away along shore north-east for the easternmost land we had in sight, being at this time in the latitude of 37 degrees 58 minutes south, and longitude of 210 degrees 39 minutes west. The southernmost point of land we had in sight, which bore from us west 1/4 south, I judged to lay in the latitude of 38 degrees 0 minutes south and in the longitude of 211 degrees 7 minutes west from the meridian of Greenwich. I have named it Point Hicks, because Lieutenant Hicks was the first who discover’d this land. To the southward of this point we could see no land, and yet it was clear in that quarter, and by our longitude compared with that of Tasman’s, the body of Van Diemen’s land ought to have bore due south from us, and from the soon falling of the sea after the wind abated I had reason to think it did; but as we did not see it, and finding the coast to trend north-east and south-west, or rather more to the westward, makes me doubtful whether they are one land or no. However, every one who compares this journal with that of Tasman’s will be as good a judge as I am; but it is necessary to observe that I do not take the situation of Vandiemen’s from the printed charts, but from the extract of Tasman’s journal, published by Dirk Rembrantse. At noon we were in the latitude of 37 degrees 50 minutes and longitude of 210 degrees 29 minutes west. The extremes of the land extending from north-west to east-north-east, a remarkable point, bore north 20 degrees east, distant 4 leagues. This point rises to a round hillock very much like the Ramhead going into Plymouth sound, on which account I called it by the same name; latitude 37 degrees 39 minutes, longitude 210 degrees 22 minutes west. The variation by an azimuth taken this morning was 8 degrees 7 minutes east. What we have as yet seen of this land appears rather low, and not very hilly, the face of the country green and woody, but the sea shore is all a white sand.
Friday, 20th April, 1770
In the p.m. and most part of the night had a fresh gale westerly, with squalls, attended with showers of rain. In the a.m. had the wind at south-west, with severe weather. At 1 p.m. saw 3 water spouts at once; 2 were between us and the shore, and one at some distance upon our larboard quarter. At 6, shortened sail, and brought too for the night, having 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom. The northermost land in sight bore north by east 1/2 east, and a small island lying close to a point on the main bore west, distant 2 leagues. This point I have named Cape Howe; it may be known by the trending of the coast, which is north on the one side and south-west on the other. Latitude 37 degrees 28 minutes south; longitude 210 degrees 3 minutes west. It may likewise be known by some round hills upon the main just within it. Having brought too with her head off shore, we at 10 wore, and lay her head in until 4 a.m., at which time we made sail along shore to the northward. At 6, the northermost land in sight bore north, being at this time about 4 leagues from the land. At noon we were in the latitude of 36 degrees 51 minutes south and longitude of 209 degrees 53 minutes west, and 3 leagues from the land. Course sailed along shore since yesterday at noon was first north 52 degrees east, 30 miles, then north by east and north by west, 41 miles. The weather being clear gave us an opportunity to view the country, which had a very agreeable and promising aspect, diversified with hills, ridges, plains, and valleys, with some few small lawns; but for the most part the whole was covered with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope; they are not high, neither are there many of them.
Saturday, 21st April, 1770
Winds southerly, a gentle breeze, and clear weather, with which we coasted along shore to the northward. In the p.m. we saw the smoke of fire in several places; a certain sign that the country is inhabited. At 6, being about 2 or 3 leagues from the land, we shortened sail, and sounded and found 44 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Stood on under an easy sail until 12 o’clock, at which time we brought too until 4 a.m., when we made sail, having then 90 fathoms, 5 leagues from the land. At 6, we were abreast of a pretty high mountain laying near the shore, which, on account of its figure, I named Mount Dromedary. The shore under the foot of the mountain forms a point, which I have named Cape Dromedary, over which is a peaked hillock. At this time found the variation to be 10 degrees 42 minutes east. Between 10 and 11 o’clock Mr. Green and I took several observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which gave 209 degrees 17 minutes west longitude from the meridian of Greenwich. By observation made yesterday we were in the longitude 210 degrees 9 minutes. West 20 minutes gives 209 degrees 49 minutes the longitude of the ship today at noon per yesterday’s observation, the mean of which and today’s give 209 degrees 33 minutes west, by which I fix the longitude of this coast. Our latitude at noon was 35 degrees 49 minutes south; Cape Dromedary bore south 30 degrees west, distant 12 leagues. An open bay wherein lay 3 or 4 small islands, bore north-west by west, distant 5 or 6 leagues. This bay seemed to be but very little sheltered from the sea winds, and yet it is the only likely anchoring place I have yet seen upon the coast.
Sunday, 22nd April, 1770
In the p.m. had a gentle breeze at south by west with which we steered along shore north by east and north-north-east at the distance of about 3 leagues. Saw the smoke of fire in several places near the sea beach. At 5, we were abreast of a point of land which, on account of its perpendicular cliffs, I called Point Upright; latitude 35 degrees 35 minutes south; it bore from us due west, distant 2 leagues, and in this situation had 31 fathoms, sandy bottom. At 6, falling little wind, we hauled off east-north-east; at this time the northermost land in sight bore north by east 1/2 east, and at midnight, being in 70 fathoms, we brought too until 4 a.m., at which time we made sail in for the land, and at daylight found ourselves nearly in the same place we were at 5 o’clock in the evening, by which it was apparent that we had been driven about 3 leagues to the southward by a tide or current in the night. After this we steered along shore north-north-east, having a gentle breeze at south-west, and were so near the shore as to distinguish several people upon the sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black colour; but whether this was the real colour of their skins or the clothes they might have on I know not. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 35 degrees 27 minutes and longitude 209 degrees 23 minutes; Cape Dromedary bore south 28 degrees west, distance 15 leagues. A remarkable peaked hill laying inland, the top of which looked like a pigeon house, and occasioned my giving it that name, bore north 32 degrees 33 minutes west, and a small low island, laying close under the shore, bore north-west, distance 2 or 3 leagues; variation of the compass 9 degrees 50 minutes east. When we first discovered this island in the morning I was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found shelter for the ship behind it; but when we came to approach it near I did not think that there was even security for a boat to land. But this, I believe, I should have attempted had not the wind come on shore, after which I did not think it safe to send a boat from the ship, as we had a large hollow sea from the south-east rolling in upon the land, which beat everywhere very high upon the shore; and this we have had ever since we came upon the coast. The land near the sea coast still continues of a moderate height, forming alternately rocky points and sandy beaches; but inland, between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon House, are several pretty high mountains, 2 only of which we saw but what were covered with trees, and these lay inland to the north-west of the Pigeon House and are remarkably flat atop, with steep rocky cliffs all around them, as we could see.
Monday, 23rd April, 1770
At 1 p.m. the northermost land in sight bore north by west 1/2 west, and we were about 4 leagues from the shore. In this situation had 25 fathoms, black sandy bottom. In the afternoon saw smoke in several places, but mostly inland. At 5 o’clock the northermost point of land bore north-west by west, distance 3 leagues; at 6, shortened sail, and kept under an easy sail all night, standing off and on shore. At 10, had 56 fathoms, and at 12, 78, being at this time 6 leagues from the land. At 4 a.m. made sail in for the land, and at daylight the northermost point of land bore north-west by west 1/2 west, distant 4 leagues. It appeared very remarkable on account of a round hillock, or rock, standing close to the point. To the northward of this point we could see no land, and yet it was clear in that quarter. At noon we were in the latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes and longitude 208 degrees 36 minutes west, and 3 leagues from the land, the northermost point of land bore north-west, being at this time 5 or 6 miles from the shore, and in 32 fathoms water. The weather being clear gave us an opportunity to view the country, which had a very agreeable and promising aspect, diversified with hills, ridges, plains, and valleys, with some few small lawns; but for the most part the whole was covered with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope; they are not high, neither are there many of them.
Tuesday, 24th April, 1770
In the PM had variable light airs and calms until 6 o’clock, at which time a breeze sprung up at NNW. At this time, we had 70 fathoms of water being about 4 or 5 leagues from the land, the Pigeon House bearing N 40° West, and Mount Dromedary S 30° West and the northernmost land in sight N 19° East. Stood to the NE until noon, having a gentle breeze at NW. At which time we tacked and stood to the westward, being then by observation in the latitude of 35° 10′ S and longitude 208° 51′ W. A point of land which I named Cape St George, we having discovered it on that saint’s day, bore west, distant 19 miles, and the Pigeon House S 75° West, the latitude and longitude of which I found to be 35° 19′ S and 209° 42′ West. In the morning, we found the variation to be by the amplitude 7° 50′ East, by several azimuths 7° 54′ East.
Thursday, 26th April, 1770
Clear serene weather. In the PM had a light breeze at NNW until 5 o’clock at which time it fell calm, we being then about 3 or 4 leagues from the land and in 48 fathoms water. Variation per azimuth 8° 48′ East, the extremes of the land from NE by N to SW by S.
Saw several smokes along the shore before dark and two or three times a fire in the night. We lay becalmed, driving in before the sea until 1 o’clock AM at which time we got a breeze from the land with which we steered NE, being then in 38 fathoms water.
At noon it fell little wind and veered to NE by N, we being then in the latitude of 34° 10′ and longitude 208° 27′ W, and about 5 leagues from the land which extended from S 37° W to N ½ E. In this latitude are some white cliffs which rise perpendicularly from the sea to a moderate height.
Friday, 27th April, 1770
Variable light airs between the NE and NW, clear pleasant weather. In the PM stood off shore until 2 o’clock, then tacked and stood in until 6 at which time we tacked and stood off, being then in 54 fathoms water and about 4 or 5 miles from the land, the extremes of which bore from S 28° West to N 25° 30′ East.
At 12 o’clock we tacked and stood in until 4 AM, then made a trip off until daylight, after which we stood in for the land. In all this time we lost ground, owing a good deal to the variableness of the winds, for at noon we were by observation in the latitude of 34° 21′, Red Point bearing S 27° West, distant 3 leagues. In this situation we were about 4 or 5 miles from the land, which extended from S 19° 30′ West to N 29° East.
Saturday, 28th April, 1770
In the PM, hoisted out the pinnace and yawl in order to attempt a landing, but the pinnace took in water so fast that she was obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leaks. At this time, we saw several people ashore, four of whom were carrying a small boat or canoe, which we imagined they were going to put into the water in order to come off to us, but in this, we were mistaken.
Being now not above two miles from the shore, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and myself put off in the yawl and pulled in for the land to a place where we saw four or five of the natives who took to the woods as we approached the shore. This disappointed us in our expectation of getting a nearer view of them, if not to speak to them. Our disappointment was heightened when we found that we nowhere could effect a landing due to the great surf which beat everywhere upon the shore.
We saw hauled up upon the beach three or four small canoes, which to us appeared not much unlike the small ones of New Zealand. In the woods, there were several trees of the palm kind and no underwood, and this was all we were able to observe of the country from the boat. After this, we returned to the ship about 5 in the evening.
At this time, it fell calm, and we were not above a mile and a half from shore in 11 fathoms of water and within some breakers that lay to the southward of us. But luckily, a light breeze came off from the land, which carried us out of danger, and with which we stood to the northward. At daylight in the morning, we discovered a bay which appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from all winds. I resolved to go into the bay with the ship and, with this view, sent the master in the pinnace to sound the entrance while we kept turning up with the ship, having the wind right out. At noon, the entrance bore NNW, distance 1 mile.
Sunday, 29th April, 1770
In the PM, the winds were southerly with clear weather, allowing us to sail into the bay. We anchored under the south shore about 2 miles within the entrance in 6 fathoms of water, with the south point bearing SE and the north point East. As we came in, we observed several natives and a few huts on both points of the bay. Men, women, and children were seen on the south shore near the ship, to which I proceeded in the boats, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia. As we approached, all the natives fled except for two men who seemed determined to prevent our landing.
Seeing their resistance, I ordered the boats to lay upon their oars to attempt communication, but neither we nor Tupia could understand their language. We threw some nails, beads, and other items ashore, which they picked up and seemed pleased with, leading us to believe they beckoned us to come ashore. However, as we attempted to land, they again opposed us. I fired a musket between them, which only caused them to retreat slightly and one to throw a stone at us. This led me to fire a second musket loaded with small shot, which struck one of them but only caused him to grab a shield for defense.
Immediately after, we landed, and they threw two darts at us. I fired a third shot, after which they fled, but not so quickly that we couldn’t have captured one. Mr. Banks suggested the darts might be poisoned, so I proceeded with caution. We found a few small huts made of tree bark, one of which contained four or five small children, with whom we left some beads and other items. We also found and took a quantity of darts lying about. The three canoes on the beach were rudimentary, made of a single piece of tree bark and kept open by sticks used as thwarts.
After an unsuccessful search for fresh water, finding only a small hole dug in the sand, we embarked and went to the north point of the bay, where we had previously seen people. Upon landing, we found no one but discovered some fresh water trickling down and standing in pools among the rocks. This was difficult to access, so I sent a party ashore the next morning to dig holes in the sand at our initial landing spot, where they found sufficient fresh water to supply the ship. The beads and other items left with the children were found untouched, likely out of fear. After breakfast, we sent empty casks ashore and a party to cut wood, while I explored and sounded the bay in the pinnace. Despite seeing several natives, they all fled upon our approach. I landed in two places, one of which had been recently vacated, as evidenced by small fires and fresh mussels broiling upon them, along with vast heaps of large oyster shells.
Monday, 30th April, 1770
As soon as the wooders and waterers came on board for dinner, 10 or 12 natives approached the watering place and took away their canoes, but they did not touch any of our casks left ashore. In the afternoon, 16 or 18 natives came boldly within 100 yards of our people at the watering place and made a stand. Mr. Hicks, the officer ashore, did all he could to entice them with presents, but it was to no avail; all they seemed to want was for us to leave.
After a short time, they went away, all armed with darts and wooden swords. The darts had four prongs pointed with fish bones and seemed intended more for striking fish than as offensive weapons; they were not poisoned as we initially thought.
After returning from sounding the bay, I went to a cove on the north side where, in three or four hauls with the seine, we caught about 300 pounds of fish, which I had equally divided among the ship’s company.
In the AM, I took the pinnace to sound and explore the north side of the bay, where I neither encountered inhabitants nor found anything remarkable. Mr. Green took the sun’s meridian altitude a little south of the entrance of the bay, which gave the latitude as 34° 0′ S.
Tuesday, 1st May, 1770
Gentle breezes, northerly. In the P.M. 10 of the natives again visited the watering place. I, being on board at this time, went immediately ashore, but before I got there they were going away. I followed them alone and unarmed some distance along shore, but they would not stop until they got farther off than I choose to trust myself. These were armed in the same manner as those that came yesterday. In the evening I sent some hands to haul the seine, but they caught but a very few fish. A little after sunrise I found the variation to be 11 degrees 3 minutes east. Last night Forby Sutherland, seaman, departed this life, and in the A.M. his body was buried ashore at the watering place, which occasioned my calling the south point of this bay after his name. This morning a party of us went ashore to some huts, not far from the watering place, where some of the natives are daily seen; here we left several articles, such as cloth, looking glasses, combs, beads, nails, etc.; after this we made an excursion into the country, which we found diversified with woods, lawns, and marshes. The woods are free from underwood of every kind, and the trees are at such a distance from one another that the whole country, or at least great part of it, might be cultivated without being obliged to cut down a single tree. We found the soil everywhere, except in the marshes, to be a light white sand, and produceth a quantity of good grass, which grows in little tufts about as big as one can hold in one’s hand, and pretty close to one another; in this manner the surface of the ground is coated. In the woods between the trees Dr. Solander had a bare sight of a small animal something like a rabbit, and we found the dung of an animal which must feed upon grass, and which, we judge, could not be less than a deer; we also saw the track of a dog, or some such like animal. We met with some huts and places where the natives had been, and at our first setting out one of them was seen; the others, I suppose, had fled upon our approach. I saw some trees that had been cut down by the natives with some sort of a blunt instrument, and several trees that were barked, the bark of which had been cut by the same instrument; in many of the trees, especially the palms, were cut steps of about 3 or 4 feet asunder for the convenience of climbing them. We found 2 sorts of gum, one sort of which is like gum dragon, and is the same, I suppose, Tasman took for gum lac; it is extracted from the largest tree in the woods.
Wednesday, 2nd May, 1770
Between 3 and 4 in the P.M. we returned out of the country, and after dinner went ashore to the watering place, where we had not been long before 17 or 18 of the natives appeared in sight. In the morning I had sent Mr. Gore, with a boat, up to the head of the bay to drudge for oysters; in his return to the ship he and another person came by land, and met with these people, who followed him at the distance of 10 or 20 yards. Whenever Mr. Gore made a stand and faced them they stood also, and notwithstanding they were all armed, they never offered to attack him; but after he had parted from them, and they were met by Dr. Monkhouse and one or 2 more, who, upon making a sham retreat, they threw 3 darts after them, after which they began to retire. Dr. Solander, I, and Tupia made all the haste we could after them, but could not, either by words or actions, prevail upon them to come near us, Mr. Gore saw some up the bay, who by signs invited him ashore, which he prudently declined. In the A.M. had the wind in the south-east with rain, which prevented me from making an excursion up the head of the bay as I intended.
Thursday, 3rd May, 1770
Winds at south-east, a gentle breeze and fair weather. In the P.M. I made a little excursion along the sea coast to the southward, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. At our first entering the woods we saw 3 of the natives, who made off as soon as they saw us; more of them were seen by others of our people, who likewise made off as soon as they found they were discovered. In the A.M. I went in the pinnace to the head of the bay, accompanied by Drs. Solander and Monkhouse, in order to examine the country, and to try to form some connections with the natives. In our way thither we met with 10 or 12 of them fishing, each in a small canoe, who retired into shoal water upon our approach. Others again we saw at the first place we landed at, who took to their canoes, and fled before we came near them; after this we took water, and went almost to the head of the inlet, where we landed and traveled some distance inland. We found the face of the country much the same as I have before described, but the land much richer for instead of sand I found in many places a deep black soil, which we thought was capable of producing any kind of grain. At present it produces, besides timber, as fine meadow as ever was seen; however, we found it not all like this, some few places were very rocky, but this, I believe, to be uncommon. The stone is sandy, and very proper for building, etc. After we had sufficiently examined this part we returned to the boat, and seeing some smoke and canoes at another part we went thither, in hopes of meeting with the people, but they made off as we approached. There were 6 canoes and 6 small fires near the shore, and muscles roasting upon them, and a few oysters laying near; from this we conjectured that there had been just 6 people, who had been out each in his canoe picking up the shellfish, and come ashore to eat them, where each had made his fire to dress them by. We tasted of their cheer, and left them in return strings of beads, etc. The day being now far spent, we set out on our return to the ship.
Friday, 4th May, 1770
Winds northerly, serene weather. Upon my return to the ship in the evening I found that none of the natives had appeared near the watering place, but about 20 of them had been fishing in their canoes at no great distance from us. In the A.M., as the wind would not permit us to sail, I sent out some parties into the country to try to form some connections with the natives. One of the midshipmen met with a very old man and woman and 2 small children; they were close to the water side, where several more were in their canoes gathering of shellfish, and he, being alone, was afraid to make any stay with the 2 old people least he should be discovered by those in the canoes. He gave them a bird he had shot, which they would not touch; neither did they speak one word, but seemed to be much frightened. They were quite naked; even the woman had nothing to cover her nudities. Dr. Monkhouse and another man being in the woods, not far from the watering place, discovered 6 more of the natives, who at first seemed to wait his coming; but as he was going up to them he had a dart thrown at him out of a tree, which narrowly escaped him. As soon as the fellow had thrown the dart he descended the tree and made off, and with him all the rest, and these were all that were met with in the course of this day.
Saturday, 5th May, 1770
In the P.M., I went with a party of men over to the North Shore, and while some hands were hauling the sean, a party of us made an excursion of 3 or 4 miles into the country, or rather along the sea coast. We met with nothing remarkable; great part of the country for some distance inland from the sea coast is mostly a barren heath, diversified with marshes and morasses. Upon our return to the boat, we found they had caught a great number of small fish, which the sailors call leather jackets on account of their having a very thick skin; they are known in the West Indies. I had sent the yawl in the morning to fish for stingrays, who returned in the evening with upwards of four hundred weight; one single one weighed 240 pounds exclusive of the entrails. In the A.M., as the wind continued northerly, I sent the yawl again fishing, and I went with a party of men into the country, but met with nothing extraordinary.
Sunday, 6th May, 1770
In the evening, the yawl returned from fishing, having caught 2 stingrays weighing near 600 pounds. The great quantity of plants Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found in this place occasioned my giving it the name of Botany Bay. It is situated in the latitude of 34 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude 208 degrees 37 minutes West. It is capacious, safe, and commodious; it may be known by the land on the sea coast, which is of a pretty even and moderate height, rather higher than it is inland, with steep rocky cliffs next to the sea, and looks like a long island lying close under the shore. The entrance of the bay lies about the middle of this land. In coming from the southward, it is discovered before you are abreast of it, which you cannot do in coming from the northward; the entrance is little more than a quarter of a mile broad and lies in west-north-west. To sail into it, keep the south shore on board until within a small bare island, which lies close under the north shore. Being within that island, the deepest of water is on that side, 7, 6, and 5 fathoms a good way up; there is shoal water a good way off from the south shore—from the inner south point quite to the head of the harbor; but over towards the north and northwest shore is a channel of 12 or 14 feet at low water, 3 or 4 leagues up, to a place where there is 3 or 4 fathoms; but there I found very little fresh water. We anchored near the south shore about a mile within the entrance for the convenience of sailing with a southerly wind and the getting of fresh water; but I afterwards found a very fine stream of fresh water on the north shore in the first sandy cove within the island, before which the ship might lay almost landlocked, and wood for fuel may be got everywhere. Although wood is here in great plenty, yet there is very little variety; the biggest trees are as large or larger than our oaks in England, and grow a good deal like them, and yield a reddish gum; the wood itself is heavy, hard, and black like lignum vitae. Another sort that grows tall and straight something like pines—the wood of this is hard and ponderous, and something of the nature of American live oak. These 2 are all the timber trees I met with; there are a few sorts of shrubs and several palm trees and mangroves about the head of the harbor. The country is woody, low, and flat as far in as we could see, and I believe that the soil is in general sandy. In the wood are a variety of very beautiful birds, such as cockatoos, lorikeets, parrots, etc., and crows exactly like those we have in England. Waterfowl are no less plenty about the head of the harbor, where there are large flats of sand and mud, on which they seek their food; the most of these were unknown to us, one sort especially, which was black and white, and as large as a goose, but most like a pelican. On the sand and mud banks are oysters, mussels, cockles, etc., which I believe are the chief support of the inhabitants, who go into shoal water with their little canoes and peck them out of the sand and mud with their hands, and sometimes roast and eat them in the canoe, having often a fire for that purpose, as I suppose, for I know no other it can be for. The natives do not appear to be numerous, neither do they seem to live in large bodies, but dispersed in small parties along by the waterside. Those I saw were about as tall as Europeans, of a very dark brown color, but not black, nor had they woolly, frizzled hair, but black and lank like ours. No sort of clothing or ornaments were ever seen by any of us upon any one of them, or in or about any of their huts; from which I conclude that they never wear any. Some that we saw had their faces and bodies painted with a sort of white paint or pigment. Although I have said that shellfish is their chief support, yet they catch other sorts of fish, some of which we found roasting on the fire the first time we landed; some of these they strike with gigs, and others they catch with hook and line; we have seen them strike fish with gigs, and hooks and lines are found in their huts. Stingrays, I believe, they do not eat, because I never saw the least remains of one near any of their huts or fireplaces. However, we could know but very little of their customs, as we never were able to form any connections with them; they had not so much as touched the things we had left in their huts on purpose for them to take away. During our stay in this harbor, I caused the English colors to be displayed ashore every day, and an inscription to be cut out upon one of the trees near the watering place, setting forth the ship’s name, date, etc. Having seen everything this place afforded, we, at daylight in the morning, weighed with a light breeze at north-west, and put to sea, and the wind soon after coming to the southward we steered alongshore north-north-east, and at noon we were by observation in the latitude of 33 degrees 50 minutes south, about 2 or 3 miles from the land, and abreast of a bay, wherein there appeared to be safe anchorage, which I called Port Jackson. It lies 3 leagues to the northward of Botany Bay. I had almost forgotten to mention that it is high water in this bay at the full and change of the moon about 8 o’clock, and rises and falls upon a perpendicular about 4 or 5 feet.
Monday, 7th May, 1770
Little wind, southerly, and serene pleasant weather. In the P.M., found the variation by several azimuths to be 8 degrees east; at sunset, the northernmost land in sight bore north 26 degrees east, and some broken land that appeared to form a bay bore north 40 degrees west, distant 4 leagues. This bay I named Broken Bay, latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes south. We steered alongshore north-northeast all night at the distance of about 3 leagues from the land, having from 32 to 36 fathoms, hard sandy bottom. A little after sunrise, I took several azimuths with 4 needles belonging to the azimuth compass, the mean result of which gave the variation of 7 degrees 56 minutes east. At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 33 degrees 22 minutes south, and about 3 leagues from the land, the northernmost part of which in sight bore north 19 degrees east. Some pretty high land, which projected out in 3 bluff points and occasioned my calling it Cape Three Points, bore south-west, distant 5 leagues; longitude made from Botany Bay 0 degrees 19 minutes east.
Tuesday, 8th May, 1770
Variable light airs and clear weather. In the P.M., saw some smokes upon the shore, and in the evening found the variation to be 8 degrees 25 minutes east; at this time we were about 2 or 3 miles from the land, and had 28 fathoms water. Our situation at noon was nearly the same as yesterday, having advanced not one step to the northward.
Wednesday, 9th May, 1770
Winds northerly; most part a fresh breeze, with which we stood off shore until 12 at night. At the distance of 5 leagues from the land had 70 fathoms, at the distance of 6 leagues 80 fathoms, which is the extent of the soundings, for at the distance of 10 leagues off we had no ground with 150 fathoms. Stood in shore until 8 o’clock A.M., and hardly fetched Cape Three Points; having a little wind at north-west by north, we tacked and stood off until noon, at which time we tacked with the wind at north-north-east, being then in the latitude of 33 degrees 37 minutes south, Cape Three Points bearing north-west by west, distance 4 leagues.
Thursday, 10th May, 1770
In the P.M., had the wind at north-east by north, with which we stood in shore until near 4 o’clock, when we tacked in 23 fathoms water, being about a mile from the land, and as much to the southward of Cape Three Points. In the night, the wind veered to north-west and west, and in the morning to south-west. Having the advantage of a light moon, we made the best of our way alongshore to the northward. At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 32 degrees 53 minutes south, and longitude 208 degrees 0 minutes west, and about 2 leagues from the land, which extended from north 41 degrees east to south 41 degrees west. A small round rock or island, lying close under the land, bore south 82 degrees west, distance 3 or 4 leagues. At sunrise in the morning, found the variation to be 8 degrees east. In the latitude of 33 degrees 2 minutes south, a little way inland, is a remarkable hill that is shaped like the crown of a hat, which we passed about 9 o’clock in the forenoon.
Friday, 11th May, 1770
Winds southerly in the day, and in the night westerly; a gentle breeze and clear weather. At 4 P.M., past, at the distance of one mile, a low rocky point which I named Point Stephens; on the north side of this point is an inlet which I called Port Stephens, that appeared to me from the masthead to be sheltered from all winds. At the entrance lay 3 small islands, 2 of which are of a tolerable height, and on the main, near the shore, are some high round hills that make at a distance like islands. In passing this bay at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the shore, our soundings were from 33 to 27 fathoms; from which I conjectured that there must be a sufficient depth of water for shipping in the bay. We saw several smokes a little way in the country upon the flat land; by this, I did suppose that there were lagoons which afforded subsistence for the natives, such as shellfish, etc., for we as yet know nothing else they have to live upon. At 1/2 past 5, the northernmost land in sight bore north 36 degrees east, and Point Stephens south-west, distant 4 leagues; at which time we took in our steerings, and ran under an easy sail all night until 4 A.M., when we made all sail; our soundings in the night were from 48 to 62 fathoms, at the distance of between 3 and 4 leagues from the land. At 8, we were abreast of a high point of land, which made in 2 hillocks; this point I called Cape Hawke. It bore from us at this time west distant 8 miles, and at the same time the northernmost land in sight bore north 6 degrees east, and appeared high and like an island. At noon, this land bore north 8 degrees east, the northernmost land in sight north 13 degrees east, and Cape Hawke south 37 degrees west. Latitude by observation 32 degrees 2 minutes south, which was 12 miles to the southward of that given by the log, which I do suppose to be owing to a current setting that way. Course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon was first north-east by east, 27 miles, then north 10 degrees east, 37 miles; longitude 207 degrees 20 minutes west; variation per morning amplitude and azimuth 9 degrees 10 minutes east.
Saturday, 12th May, 1770
Winds southerly, a gentle breeze in the P.M. As we run along shore, we saw several smokes a little way inland from the sea, and one upon the top of a hill, which was the first we have seen upon elevated ground since we have been upon the coast. At sunset, we were in 23 fathoms, and about a league and a half from the land, the northernmost part of which we had in sight bore north 13 degrees east; and 3 remarkable large high hills lying contiguous to each other, and not far from the shore, bore north-north-west. As these hills bore some resemblance to each other we called them the 3 Brothers. We steered north-east by north all night, having from 27 to 67 fathoms, from 2 to 5 and 6 leagues from the land, and at daylight, we steered north for the northernmost land we had in sight. At noon, we were 4 leagues from the land, and by observation in the latitude of 31 degrees 18 minutes south, which was 15 miles to the southward of that given by the log. Our course and distance made good since yesterday noon was north 24 degrees east, 48 miles. Longitude 206 degrees 58 minutes west; several smokes seen a little way inland.
Sunday, 13th May, 1770
In the P.M., we stood inshore with the wind at northeast until 6, at which time we tacked, being about 3 or 4 miles from the land, and in 24 fathoms. Stood offshore with a fresh breeze at north and north-northwest until midnight, then tacked, being in 118 fathoms and 8 leagues from the land. At 3 a.m., the wind veered to the westward, and we tacked and stood to the northward. At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 30 degrees 43 minutes south and longitude 206 degrees 45 minutes west, and about 3 or 4 leagues from the land. The northernmost part of which bore from us north 13 degrees west; and a point or headland, on which were fires that caused a great quantity of smoke, which occasioned my giving it the name of Smokey Cape, bore south-west, distant 4 leagues; it is moderately high land. Over the pitch of the point is a round hillock; within it, 2 others, much higher and larger, and within them, very low land. Besides the smoke seen upon this Cape, we saw more in several places along the coast. The observed latitude was only 5 miles to the southward of the log.
Monday, 14th May, 1770
At the P.M., it fell calm, and continued so about an hour, when a breeze sprung up at northeast, with which we stood inshore until 6 o’clock, when, being in 30 fathoms and 3 or 4 miles from the land, we tacked, having the wind at north-northwest. At this time Smoky Cape bore south 3/4 degrees west, distant about 5 leagues, and the northernmost land in sight north 1/4 degrees east. At 8, we made a trip inshore for an hour; after this, the wind came off shore, with which we stood alongshore to the northward, having from 30 to 21 fathoms, at the distance of 4 or 5 miles from the land. At 5 a.m., the wind veered to north and blew a fresh breeze, attended with squalls and dark cloudy weather. At 8, it began to thunder and rain, which lasted about an hour, and then fell calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and found 86 fathoms, being about 4 or 5 leagues from the land; after this, we got the wind southerly, a fresh breeze and fair weather, and we steered north by west for the northernmost land we had in sight. At noon, we were about 4 leagues from the land, and by observation in the latitude of 30 degrees 22 minutes south, which was 9 miles to the southward of that given by the log. Longitude in 206 degrees 39 minutes west, and course and distance made good since yesterday noon north 16 degrees east, 22 miles; some tolerable high land near the shore bore west. As I have not mentioned the aspect of the country since we left Botany Bay, I shall now describe it as it hath at different times appeared to us. As we have advanced to the northward, the land hath increased in height, in so much that in this latitude it may be called a hilly country; but between this and Botany Bay it is diversified with an agreeable variety of hills, ridges, and valleys, and large plains all clothed with wood, which to all appearance is the same as I have before mentioned, as we could discover no visible alteration in the soil. Near the shore, the land is in general low and sandy, except the points which are rocky, and over many of them are pretty high hills, which at first rising out of the water appear like an island.
Tuesday, 15th May, 1770
Fresh gales at south-west, west-southwest, and south-southwest. In the P.M., had some heavy squalls, attended with rain and hail, which obliged us to close reef our topsails. Between 2 and 4, we had some small rocky islands between us and the land; the southernmost lies in the latitude of 30 degrees 10 minutes, the northernmost in 29 degrees 58 minutes, and about 2 leagues or more from the land; we sounded and had 33 fathoms about 12 miles without this last island. At 8, we brought to until 10, at which time we made sail under our topsails. Having the advantage of the moon, we steered alongshore north and north by east, keeping at the distance of about 3 leagues from the land having from 30 to 25 fathoms. As soon as it was daylight, we made all the sail we could, having the advantage of a fresh gale and fair weather. At 9, being about a league from the land, we saw upon it people and smoke in several places. At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 28 degrees 39 minutes south and longitude 206 degrees 27 minutes west; course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon north 6 degrees 45 minutes east, 104 miles. A tolerable high point of land bore north-west by west, distant 3 miles; this point I named Cape Byron. It may be known by a remarkable sharp peaked mountain lying inland north-west by west from it. From this point, the land trends north 13 degrees west. Inland, it is pretty high and hilly, but near the shore it is low; to the southward of the point, the land is low, and tolerably level.