Thursday, 1st September, 1825
Embarked on board the Cutter Mermaid.
Friday, 2nd September, 1825
At 5 o’clock A.M. sailed from Sydney – after a fine run anchored inside Nobby’s Island, Hunters River – At half past 6 P.M. landed the Detachment of the Buffs.
Saturday, 3rd September, 1825
The Brig Amity lying here learnt, that she had not the boat, that was supposed to be on board that vessel – At 11 A.M. sailed for Port Macquarie.
Sunday, 4th September, 1825
Arrived off Port Macquarie, at 5 A.M. went on shore – the Brig Henrietta had sailed from thence with the boat, that was said to be in the Amity – Captain Gillman offered me any of his boats, that I thought would answer; on inspecting them, they proved quite unfit, except a boat belonging to Lieutenant Owen, which I considered my duty to purchase for government, as the one furnished at Sydney was incapable of carrying the necessary articles &c. for the expedition, besides being very much the worse for having been badly used, and was patched up, and not safe. Went on board at 12 A.M. – had the new boat hoisted, and made sail.
Monday, 5th September, 1825
Wind fresh W.S.W. – running along the coast – found the head lands to answer correctly as laid down by Captain Flinders, passed Cape Byron and Port Danger, the latter at half past 6. P.M.
Tuesday, 5th September, 1825
Wind S. light airs, at day light close in with Point Lookout – passed in between the reef of rocks, and flat island, – Plenty of water eighteen fathoms to eleven to the outer buoys of the channel, leading into Moreton Bay by Amity Point. In the channel, not less than four fathoms and half at the last of the ebb – good anchorage inside and close under the shore of the land. Inside Amity Point from this anchorage through the channel up to Peel’s Island, not less than four fathoms at high water; after rounding Peels Island plenty of water for ships of any size and good anchorage, which continues all the way up to the Green Islands and from thence to the buoy on the spit of land off the mouth of the Brisbane.
Thursday, 7th September, 1825
At 6 o’clock weighed anchor and stood for the river – came to anchor at the buoy on the end of the spit. The navigation would be considerably facilitated by regular buoys being placed of different colours, red and white, to mark the sides of the channel. At 3 o’clock P.M. learning from Mr. Penson, the master of the Mermaid, that he did not think it prudent to take the cutter over the bar, I departed in my boat, to proceed to the settlement up the river; on going over the bar, which was then high water, found upwards of 12 feet all over the passage by which I entered. At half past 7 o’clock, landed at Eden Glassie, Captain Bishop 40th Regiment Commandant.
Friday, 8th September, 1825
Wrote back to Mr. Penson, desiring him to use all exertion to sound for a passage, and to bring the cutter over the bar, and up the river to the settlement.
Saturday, 9th September, 1825
Making arrangements for the equipment of the boats and packing of the provisions.
Sunday, 10th September, 1825
Several natives loaded the boats, and embarked at 2 o’clock, P.M. – were seen on the side of the river opposite to the settlement. I was informed by Captain Bishop and Lieut. Miller, that they had not appeared there before in numbers, except one or two, and that very seldom. On this occasion I think there were upwards of thirty men, women, and children. – They seemed desirous to cross the River. I learnt on my return, that they had swam across higher up, after my departure, but could not be persuaded to approach the settlement nearer than 2 or 3 hundred yards, where they remained looking at the buildings and the cattle for about an hour, and then went off, and were not again seen.
Miles – Course of the River
½ – North West
3 – SW. & SW by S.
1 – S. to East
¾ – S.S.E.
1 ½ – W.S.W.
On the banks, Pine trees on both sides. The Indian fig tree – blue gum, swamp oak, iron bark, and occasionally thick brush. In the last reach a long shoal of hard gravel in the middle of the river.
At quarter past 5 o’clock landed on the right side of the river in going up which we observed it to be a Brush with long grass, thinly wooded and rising in a gradual slope from the river – It was a very pretty situation, where I halted for the night, which was very cold, with a very heavy dew, and the mosquitoes innumerable and exceedingly troublesome, which we found to be dispersed by our smoking. The boats sail was a good substitute for a tent, though it did not succeed in keeping out heavy rain.
Monday, 11th September, 1825
Left our halting place, and embarked at 8 o’clock.
Course – Miles
N.W. – 1 ½
W. to SW. E. to SS. E. – 2 ½
S. to SS E. – 1 ¼ – steep bank
N.W. – 1 ¾ – a reef of rocks20 nearly across the river – 7 stones
W.S.W. – 2 ½ – Pines occasionally on both sides.
S. – ¾ – green hills
W. SW – ¾ Hilly banks, and low ground intervening.
S. SE. – ¾
W. SW. – ½ – Red cliffs.
S. E. – ¼
S. W. – ¼
S. E. – 1 ¼ An island, 22 three quarters of a mile long, thickly wooded, and often flooded.
N. W. – 1 ¼
N. NW. – 2 – A large branch here joins the main river from the Southward called Bumers Creek (Bremer’s Creek).
S. SW. – 1 ¼
N. NW. – 3 ¼ – Here a long sand bank and also gravel with patches of brush, and trees on it.
– 21 ¾ Miles
The wood on the banks – Fig tree, Blue gum. Swamp oak, and Iron bark, for the last half distance no Pines, but here and there a solitary cedar – On landing found spinage in great abundance, mint, parsley, and the wild poppy. Halted at 3 o’clock on the left side of the river on a sand stone rock forming a natural wharf or jetty. The tide only flows a short distance above this. Whilst dinner was preparing, took a walk into the country, found it delightful, thinly wooded to a great extent, fine pasturage for any number of cattle, and only occasionally thick brush with little marks of natives having been there – Several very fine eels were caught here, and a fish called the cat fish.
Tuesday, 12th September, 1825
At past 8, left our halting place and proceeded.
Course – Miles
NW. and N. – 1 ½
W. to S. – 2
E. – ½
S. – ½
W. and SW. – 1 ¼ – Large project rock.
S. SW. and W. – 1 ¼ Crossed a rapid.
W. – 2 ½ – Three do.
N. and NE. – ¾ – Passage much obstructed by trees.
N. and W – ¾ – Lying in the river and across it. Detained two hours, before we could cut a passage through four large blue gums.
– 9 Miles
The country as yesterday, except the hills being high with fine downs thinly wooded with very high grass, of the cat species: very few pines to be seen; the river in some places was considerably narrow, and then again widened; over the rapids rather shallow, obliged to track the boats over, to do which the men were forced to get out; marks of drift grass and pieces of wood washed up the sides of the banks, and up into the branches of the trees – Marked the floods to rise here upwards of one hundred feet; near the place of our encampment fresh marks of the natives having had their fires – As yet we have not seen any – landed at half past 4 o’clock P.M. – Mr. Oxley has been thus far.
Wednesday, 13th September, 1825
At past 8 A.M. left our halting place.
Course – Miles
N. W. – 1 ¼ – Several rapids.
N. and NW. – 1 ¾ – Shallow, rapid & difficult
S. and SE. – 1 ¾ – River deep a rapid easy high red cliffs.
SE. to NW. – 3 – Many shallow, and a very rapid fall – Coal bed
N. – 1 ¼ – Very shallow.
– 9 Miles
This day from the number of rapids and shoals, the getting of the boats up was a matter of great labour and exertion, as the men were mostly in the water for upwards of six hours. – At half past two landed and encamped for the night. Saw some cedar trees, on the Banks of the river near the edge quantities of honey suckle and swamp-oak; on the high ground, blue gum and iron bark in abundance and very large. Saw a few wild ducks; the fires of the natives quite fresh and concluded from not seeing them, that they avoid us; cod fish caught similar to those which are taken in the river at Bathurst.
Thursday, 14th September, 1825
At half past 8 embarked and proceeded up the river.
Course – Miles
N. – 1 ¼ – Rapids then deep water for upwards of a mile and half
NE. – ¾
SS E – ¾
E. N. E. – 1 ½
N. – ¾
N. NW. – 1 ¾
W. – ½
NW. – 1 ¾
N. – ½
E. to S. – 1 ½
SE. – ¾ Some names seen, high hills.
– 11 ¾ Miles
The hills beautifully covered with pine trees, of large size, the banks as before with swamp oak, Honey suckle, Blue gum, and Iron bark. We this day for the first time saw some of the natives – ordered the boats to pull up, to the shore, on which they stood – after a little hesitation, and the sight of a looking glass, which I held up, they ventured down within a few yards. Gave them some biscuit, shewed them two sheep, we had in the boat, at the sight of them their astonishment was great, as also at two of the soldiers of the 40th Regt, who had very red hair: from their manner it was evident, the colour of these soldiers’ hair was a matter of great curiosity to them as well as their red jackets. They were perfectly naked, stout, clean skinned, well made people, and shewed no symptom whatever of hostility. From the short intercourse, I had with them, I do not think, that they had ever seen an European before. In the evening heavy rain – the sail completely drenched through; passed a very uncomfortable night, the fires going out oweing to the heavy rain – much thunder and lightning.
Friday, 15th September, 1825
About 7 o’clock the rain ceased, and the weather began to break up – with the aid of good fires we soon got our clothes dry, and at 9 o’clock embarked.
Course – Miles
W. NW. – 1 ¼
W. – 2 ½
WNW. – 3
– 6 ¾
Several rapids and shoals with dead trees lying in all directions in the stream, which cause great trouble to get the boats over, and to keep clear of them.
The natives, we saw yesterday, again made their appearance: amongst them saw an old man, a cripple, whom they carried; also a little boy – gave them fish hooks and lines. – They kept constantly pointing with their fingers to the boats and shouting, supposing them, as I concluded to be alive. The men having no change of clothes but what were wet, at 2 o’clock I ordered a landing, having observed a good spot for the purpose on a point, which projected into the river from its bank on the left side going up. Under a range of hills encamped near a very large tree, a blue gum. To mark the spot, I caused the broad arrow to be cut above four feet from the bottom. The country here very good on both sides, soil good; walked up the hills, the country behind them having quite a park-like appearance. I saw Kangaroos in abundance, but they were extremely shy. As far as I could see to the S and SW, the whole country appeared well timbered with forests of tall pines; and to the NW. bond and NE. very few. – Walked several miles, having started as soon as I landed, and did not return until half past 5 in the evening – a fine lagoon of good water, about a mile and half from the landing place in a SW. direction; found the grass very long and fatiguing to walk in – rain during the evening.
Saturday, 16th September, 1825
At 9 o’clock got into the boats and departed. Course.
Course – Miles
NWN. and NE. – 1 ½ – Deep water
NE, by E. and NE. – 1 ½ – Rapids and falls
NW. and N. – 1 ¼ – Shallow
W. – 1 ¾ – Long reach and deep
N. – ¾ – Same
NW. – 1 ¼ – Great quantities of free stone of a good description on the right side going up.
N. and NW. and N. – 1 ¾
W. – ¾
– 10 ½ Miles
Landed at the spot, where Mr. Gray the Pilot had stated, he saw the white race, and made our huts for the night; the party much fatigued, having been hard at work for six hours, it being 3 o’clock, when we landed. The pine hills, which appeared very high on ascending, now that we had left them in our rear, presented only their tops to our view which proved, we had ascended considerably; no appearance of the natives, where we halted – no marks of fires nor the remains of shells of the river-muscle, nor of huts – this place was pointed out by Thomas Robinson, one of the sailors who was with Mr. Gray, who on my questioning him as to the color, number &c. &c. of the people stated to have been seen, said it was dusk at the time – that he only saw two or three men running in the bush, who appeared to be of a light colour, but he saw no bows nor arrows.
–
N. B. The natives are known on some occasions to whiten themselves with wood ashes.
Sunday, 17th September, 1825
At half past 8 again set out.
Course – Miles
W. SW. and W. – ¾ – To a fall
SW. – ½ – To a fall
SSW. and SW. – 5 ¾ – Picked up a fishing net neatly made but old and rotten.
SSW. and W. – ½
W. – 1 – Trees lying in the river.
NW. – ¾ – -A large creek running into the Brisbane from the westward.38
– 9 ½ Miles
Much obstruction from dead trees lying across a narrow and winding part of the river, too numerous and large to attempt cutting a passage through them; consequently had to pull the boats over, taking every article out of them, and in making a distance of about a mile and half they were unladen four times, which occupied upwards of three hours, the stream running four knots and a half. On getting clear of this rapid, we entered a long reach with deep water – great number of wild ducks shot several, as also a yellow snake – On the left side going up, and opposite our halting place, a large stream or creek joined the main river – after landing, the men went to fish, and caught a great number of cod and eels, the former particularly good. The country about this place was very fine, and the soil excellent. The trees of the same description – Iron bark and stones in abundance.
Monday, 18th September, 1825
At 9 o’clock, proceeded up the river.
Course – Miles
N. – ¾ – To a fall.
NE. and E. – ¾ – A fall.
N. and NW. – ¾ – A fall.
NE. – ½ – Shallow.
E. – ½ – Falls.
E. SE. – ¾ – Fall 39
S. – ½ – Fall
SE. and E. – ¾ – Fall
NE. and N. – ¾ Pine, hills bearing due N.
NW. and WNW. – ¾ – A ford.
NW. to NW. – ¾ – Deep water.
– 7 ½ Miles
Landed at half past 4 o’clock P.M. From the number of falls and the rapidity of the stream this proved a most laborious day, and the party landed completely knocked up – several marks of fires and muscle shells, where the natives had lately been – white cockatoos in great numbers. Parroquetes in great variety, but similar to those seen in the country about Sydney.
Tuesday, 19th September, 1825
During the morning until ten o’clock, very heavy rain.
Course – Miles
NW. – ¾ – Deep
S. and SW. – ¾ – a fall
NW. and N. – ½ – a fall
NW. and W. – ½
SW. and W. – ½ – a fall
W. SW. – 1 ½ – deep reach
– 4 ½ Miles
Rain began to pour in torrents about 12 o’clock, which compelled us to seek a place of shelter – took advantage of a very remarkable spot under a very high hill near its base, where were some natural caves about the size of a side box, of a theatre, and resembling it much in shape – the abodes of wild cats and dogs. After getting the necessary articles, landed from the boats, – walked up the hill, which occupied one hour and a half – it appeared to me not less than 1000 feet high. On reaching the summit the weather began to clear up, – had a tolerable view of the country, which is very mountainous to the W.N.W. and high hills to the westward and SW. To the S. was and SE. high land was discernible through the haze. Between the hills, upon whose summit I then was and the mountains to the W. N. W. and W. a large flat country in extent not less than 30 or 40 miles finely wooded with blue gums and Iron bark – The iron stone prevails, very rotten, good sand stone, fine soil and fit for any purpose of cultivation. The rain again set in, and continued during the evening and greater part of the night with thunder and much lightning.
Wednesday, 20th September, 1825
The weather having cleared up and having got our clothes pretty dry, we quitted this spot at 9 o’clock.
Course – Miles
NN E. – ¾
E. and ESE – ¾
ENE and W NW. – 1 ½
NW. – 1 ¾
WNW and WSW – 2
SW. – 1 ¾
SSW. – ¾
W and WNW – 1
N and NNE – ¾
N and NW and W – 1
WNW and NW. – ½
NW. to NNW. – ¾
NE to N. – ¾
– 14 Miles
The river became much better, as we were now crossing a level country – On rounding the point of one of the reaches we came suddenly on the encampment of some natives, who, on seeing us ran off leaving their Kangaroo skins, spears and tomahawks all behind – landed and examined their implements, giving strict orders not to remove a single article – sent to the boats for some biscuit and left it on the Kangaroo skins.
As I could not ascertain the direction the natives had taken or whether they would return, we got into the boats, and proceeded about a mile, when two natives were seen following us up the banks and calling to us – we returned to the shore and after some difficulty induced them to have sufficient confidence, to allow us to approach close to them, when they proved to be woman and a lad about 14 years of age – the former had an infant in her arms – gave them looking glasses, beads and fish hooks, their surprise and apparent wonder at seeing people so opposite to themselves in color as well as in other respects, cannot well be described, but it is certain, that they had never seen white people before, nor could they believe, that the boats were not living animals, as I could not induce them to go down to the place, where they were On making signs for them to do so, the woman shook her head, and put her hand to her mouth, as if she was afraid they would bite. – Whilst we were holding communications with these two natives, several women and children were seen at a distance, but we could not induce them to come near; the men no doubt were not far off, though they did not appear. Finding we could not induce them to approach, we left our new acquaintances after convincing them of our friendly intentions. The woman, in return for what I had given her, held out a neat basket, made of plaited straw, and a kangaroo skin. The former I took, but declined the latter, as it was an article of considerable use and value to them. As we proceeded up the river, these poor people continued to wave their hands and to shout after us, until we were completely out of sight – They were black and perfectly naked. Great numbers of wild ducks were seen upon the river – we shot several in passing the boats. No pine trees were seen this day – at 5 o’clock we landed and made the boats fast for the night on a bank on the right side of the river, about half way up a rapid in the eddy of the stream, which had formed a little basin – This place from the colour of the soil was named Red Bank.
Thursday, 21st September, 1825
This morning at half past 7 I observed the water had risen a foot in less than an hour, and its discoloured appearance indicating that a flood was coming down, no time was to be lost in getting the boats up this rapid into the next reach – we accordingly all quitted our position.
Course – MIles
NE. & N. – 1 ¼
NW. & W. 45 – 1 ¾
SW. – ¾
WSW. – ¾
WNW. & N. – 1
N. & NW. – 1
N. & NNW. – 1
N. & NNW. – ¾
NE. – ½
– 8 ¾ Miles
The rapidity of the current increased every hour and the river had risen upwards of eight feet by eleven o’clock, and there was no want of water over up the rapids, but we experienced extreme difficulty in getting the boats from the great strength of the stream running down the falls and rapids. The country on both banks of the river was very fine with a very rich alluvial soil, and the whole on both sides all the way up from the settlement, quite fit for the cultivation of wheat, barley, oats, maize, fruit, vegetables grapes particularly, as also cotton, coffee and rice, with sugar cane might with common exertion be produced in the greatest abundance. Very fine fish including a great quantity of very large eels were caught by the party- we landed at 2 o’clock and examining the country in the vicinity, found it, as described. We also observed marks of fires, and trees barked by the natives.
Friday, 22nd September, 1825
Left at 9 o’clock.
Course – Miles
NNE & N. – 1 ¾ – Deep water
NNW. – ½ – Deep water
WNW. – ½ – Fall very rapid
W. – 1 ½ – Deep water, Pine Hill due W.
WNW. – 1 ¼ – Deep water
NNW. – ½ – Deep water
– 6 Miles
Landed at half past 1 to enable the party to wash their clothes, and to repair the oars of the whale boat, the river continuing the same, the country appearing beautiful – the flood still running down.
Saturday, 23rd September, 1825
Left at 9 o’clock.
Course – Miles
NW & N. – ¾
N – 1
NE – ¾
N & NE – 1
E – ¾
SE. – 1 ¾
E & NE – 1 ¼
NE – ¾
– 8 Miles
The flood still running with such great force, that with unceasing exertion we had only made 8 miles at four o’clock, and frequently after we had nearly surmounted it with the greatest exertion in pulling up against the stream the men from being completely exhausted, were obliged to desist from their efforts, and we should soon have been taken down against our wish to the first tree to which we could make fast. Here I was in hopes of falling in with a large tribe of natives – 9 huts being directly opposite where we landed. On going over, however, we were disappointed, as there was no trace of their having been there for some days. We noticed several kangaroo and fish bones. – Heavy rain all the evening.
Sunday, 24th September, 1825
During the night heavy rain, thunder and lightning, the flood in the river running down with great force making much noise in rushing over the rocks and the stumps of trees lying in the river. At this place a considerable stream runs into the river from the eastward – I caused a blue gum to be cut down. The weather proved so bad during the day, that I considered it advisable to remain, where we were.
Monday, 25th September, 1825
We attempted to go with the boats – made about four miles, but found it impossible to make head against the stream, which was running at least eight or nine knots. – We landed, and took the precaution to have the ropes of the boat carried well up the bank, as the river was rising very rapidly. Opposite our encampment was an immense range of mountains, the largest of which and the nearest was about 1500 feet high.
Course – Miles
N. NW & N – 2 ¼
NW & W – 1 ¾
– 4 Miles
Having landed about one o’clock we made an excursion into the country. There can be no doubt, but that the natives avoid us. From the marks of fires, their empty huts and the number of trees barked, I should think them rather numerous in this neighbourhood.
Tuesday, 26th September, 1825
We again attempted at eight o’clock to proceed finding the river to have gone down six feet. Advanced about a mile, but found it impossible to pull against the stream up a rapid; made arrangements for tracking the boats by sending ashore and the party passing the end of the rope to each other along the banks, as far as it would reach, and all the party assisting in hauling one boat at a time against the stream, remaining myself to steer her clear of trees and stumps lying in the middle – we succeeded in doing so nearly half way up the rapid, when the rope broke, and the boat was instantly carried down a considerable distance below, but fortunately without coming in contact with any thing, and by steering into an eddy I got the boat to the opposite shore. I found it useless with the means, with which I was provided, to make any further attempt to get the boats up this rapid, which I observed to extend upwards of a mile, and trying the stream with the log line I found it running at the rate of nine knots, therefore considerable danger was to be apprehended. And it was extremely fortunate on the rope breaking, that the boat escaped coming in contact with any of the numerous large stumps of trees, which lay directly in the main stream of the river, and which would have instantly knocked her to atoms. The loss of the boat and also of the provisions would have placed me in an awkward situation. This determined me to order the party and the other boat to join me, and on their doing so I directed every thing to be landed, and having fixed on a good spot under the mountain, I made arrangements to proceed by land for further exploring the river; leaving the Corporal of the 40th Regiment in charge of the boats and stores with one private of the 40th, four sailors and a convict; at the same time I gave strict orders to the Corporal on no account whatever to quit that place, or to move the boats, and to be on his guard in the event of the approach of any number of natives, and to prevent any violence being offered them, and to behave towards them in a manner to convince them no hostility would be intended. – Every thing being ready, at twelve o’clock I set out, accompanied by Mr. Dulhunty a private of the 40th, one sailor and two convicts, with my servant carrying with us 8 days provisions, – kept the river in view – found walking extremely difficult, and dreadfully fatiguing from the long grass, which was at least four or five feet high, out of which started numbers of kangaroo of the large sort or forest kangaroo. Private Ward of the 40th would have trodden upon an immense snake had he not fortunately been prevented by my servant – it was shot by the former, and, when measured, proved to be ten feet in length and seven inches round, and of the diamond species. We crossed three considerable beds of rivers running down from the mountain to the main river. The water in the streams, that was running through them was excellent. At five o’clock being considerably tired we halted for the night about a quarter of a mile from the banks of the Brisbane – the course, which we traced from the spot, where we left the boats, was –
Course – Miles
NW & N – ¾
NW W & N – 3 ¼
NW. W. & SW – 5 ¾
– 9 ¼ Miles
The night was extremely cold, and a number of emus, which our fires had disturbed, were running about, making an intolerable noise all night. From the quantity of trees newly barked, and wood lately burnt, as well as the skeleton of several bark huts, we concluded, that the natives must be numerous, and could not be far off.
Wednesday, 27th September, 1825
At eight o’clock having all ready, we again set out, keeping the river in view. Nothing can possibly exceed the fine rich country we are now in – we continued keeping the river in view until 12 o’clock its course being –
Course – Miles
SWW NW & N – 2 ¼
NE N & NW – 4 ½
W & SW – 1 ¾
– 8 ½ Miles
Here the bed of the river, though broad, was nearly dry, except a small stream passing through it, and at this time quite impassable for boats, and from the number of large streams running down from the Brisbane Mountain, I am induced to suppose the river to be chiefly supplied by these tributary streams, as it certainly terminates here as a river, but I think it very probable, that the large swamp, into which the river at Bathurst loses itself, occasionally overflows, and is the cause of the tremendous floods, that at times take place in the Brisbane River. From the Brisbane Mountain looking to the westward with a fine clear sky I could not discern the least sign or appearance of any hills or mountain, but all a flat country behind a ridge of hills running North and South. These hills well wooded with pine trees; the long and thick grass making it dreadfully fatiguing to walk through it with our loads, the men being badly off for shoes, and two of them having sore feet. In consequence of this, seeing the impossibility of making any progress by land, I determined to rejoin the boats by a short cut, without going back by the course of the river, which we accomplished the same evening, after having crossed the eastermost end of the Brisbane Mountain at half past six o’clock, P.M. found all right with the party left in charge myself and companions quite knocked up.
Thursday, 30th September, 1825
Much rain, thunder and lightning – directed the boats to be got ready, and every thing put into them to descend the river, as my instructions were to return if possible by the middle of October. At 10 o’clock we left the Brisbane Mountain, and before quitting it I caused a tree to be barked, and a broad arrow to be cut deep into it. Made rapid progress – going at the rate of eight and nine knots through the falls and rapids, which was attended with considerable danger for the want of ropes to ease the boats down I had no alternative but to keep the stream and a good look out, as also good steerage. The weather threatening I deemed it prudent to land, and erect our huts, which was no sooner done, than the rain began to come down accompanied by thunder and lightning; the flies were very troublesome, as we had experienced these three days past – made the distance 25 miles.
Friday, 29th September, 1825
At nine set out and continued going down the river, until three o’clock, P.M. In passing down one of the falls the whale boat was caught by a stump of a tree, that was under water, and nearly upset, she was half full of water before she was clear. I also with the green boat struck a tree from the great force, with which we were going, – The jerk threw me nearly out of the boat, being head and shoulders in the water, but was prevented from going further by one of the men holding me by the leg – killed several ducks – whilst dinner was getting ready took a walk with my gun – saw a bird not unlike a goose running in the bush – but he was too quick for me, to get a shot at him smoke was seen in several directions around us, but the natives do not appear at all to wish to come near us. This day 22 miles.
Saturday, 30th September, 1825
At eight we again set out, passed through several falls, in one of which I was obliged to drop the boats down. Several fresh obstacles had taken place by the flood having taken away several large trees from off the banks of the river. Arrived at the caves at two o’clock – very heavy rain with thunder and lightening – shot a wild duck of a new species, which proved good eating. map as the eastern end.
In all my walks I could not find any variety of rocks, they being either the rotten iron stone, the plum pudding rock or sand stone. Distance 14 miles.
Sunday, 1st October, 1825
Last night the weather was extremely sultry with thunder, lightning and rain. At 8 o’clock we set forward, and in our way had many proofs of the effects of a small flood – a large one must be terrific. Had we by any chance have been deprived of the cross-cut saw and axes the boats must have been abandoned. After meeting with many obstructions we arrived at the spot, where we halted on the 17th of last month. Afternoon and evening heavy showers, – fish caught in abundance. Distance 15 miles.
Monday, 2nd October, 1825
From the circumstance of all our clothes being very wet, and from the appearance of the country and having a wish to examine the large branch, which here joined from the southward, I determined on halting at this spot. After breakfast took one of the boats, and went up this branch above three miles, then landed and on ascending the banks, found a large open country with scarcely any wood of consequence to impede cultivation on it – the trees chiefly blue gums, being at least an acre or more apart and more ornamental than otherwise. The natives had lately set fire to the long grass, and the new grass was just above ground making this plain appear like a bowling-green; the soil rich beyond any idea, and from its being easily flooded, it would be particularly adapted for the cultivation of rice, sugar cane, cotton and coffee. – I saw plenty of kangaroo and wild turkies. – After traversing this fine piece of land, which was at least 6 to 7000 acres in extent, I returned to our encampment.
Tuesday, 3rd October, 1825
At half past eight set out – obliged to drop the boats down some of the falls – observed in passing through one of the reaches a native sitting on the banks and within a half mile, where Mr. Gray had stated that he had seen white people. This man was sick, and appeared to be totally indifferent to and insensible of our presence – I gave him some biscuit and left him. At three o’clock landed and encamped the party discovered some natives about a mile distant – we immediately went to the place, and succeeded in getting close to them before they saw us. They proved to be two men, a woman and three children – we made them presents. The woman could not be induced to look up, but hid her face between her legs, and on our moving off, as soon as she ascertained we had gone a short distance, she was on her legs and off like an arrow. This day’s distance 22 miles.
Wednesday, 4th October, 1825
Left at eight o’clock – made rapid progress and arrived at the coal bed filled a sack of it as a sample – there is fine coal just below. The whale boat struck a tree and knocked a large hole in her bottom – she was full of water before she could be beached; took every thing out of her, hauled her up, and in about two hours had her completely repaired. Made our distance this day 28 miles.
Thursday, 5th October, 1825
Left at eight o’clock – shortly afterwards passed down a fall with a remarkable bed of rocks in it. On going up the water was much lower, it was now nearly four feet higher, and broke violently – we this day met several natives, who were a little shy at first, but soon became confident, and were fine people. Distance 18 miles.
Friday, 6th October, 1825
Left at five o’clock, and arrived at the settlement at eleven – distance 20 miles – having been absent twenty-seven days, the party being all in good health, and without meeting a single accident of any consequence. I am certain the distances are considerably underrated, from a wish at the time rather to underrate than otherwise. The obstructions in the river might be easily removed, which no doubt must prove of considerable importance – the fine timber growing on its bank is fit for every purpose, particularly ship building. Moreton Bay is well calculated to become a place of trade when once settled.
Sunday, 8th October, 1825
At two o’clock quitted the settlement to join the cutter at Moreton Bay, for the purpose of returning to Sydney. It becoming dark on getting clear of the river, we did not get on board until eleven o’clock at night, as it was with great difficulty we discovered the cutter, which I should not have succeeded in doing, but for the lucky accident of having my double barrel fowling piece, which I discharged several times – at last we saw a light hoisted to the mast, distant from us about a mile and half.
Monday, 9th October, 1825
Beat down to Peel’s Island – came to an anchor – went on shore and found it well wooded – some part of it good soil, the remainder sandy. On removing it from the surface, found a good clay soil below – in the middle of the island is a lagoon of excellent fresh water – the island is from 12 to 15 miles in circumference, and would be a very proper place on which to build a storehouse, to deposit stores landed from large vessels, that could not approach the settlement nearer than this. It would also feed a number of cattle, sheep and other stock.
Tuesday, 10th October, 1825
Dropped down to Amity Point, and anchored there, the wind blowing in with a strong sea breeze from the NE. Went on shore, a number of the natives being there was much amused by their singing a song pronouncing several English words most distinctly, and by their instantly recognizing James Finnegan, one of the three men, who was wrecked on the shore in a boat there, three years ago, having been driven away to the northward from Illawara or the Five Islands by a gale of wind. These men were kindly treated and taken care of by the natives for nine months- until discovered by Mr. Oxley. They appeared delighted at meeting Finnegan again, and instantly brought a supply of fish, which they offered without expecting any return, though I took care by giving them fish hooks, lines, biscuit and several other things, looking glasses, hatchets, to show them we did not slight such good will. The stories told of their being cannibals are fabulous and absurd – they are a quiet, inoffensive, good natured, lively set of people.
Wednesday, 11th October, 1825
Quitted Moreton Bay at nine o’clock, P.M. with a land breeze, leaving our friends the natives sitting on the shore at Amity Point, watching the vessel until she sunk in the horizon from their view. The attachment of these people to their dogs is worthy of notice – I was very anxious to get one of the wild native breed of a black colour, a very handsome puppy, which one of the men had in his arms. I offered a small axe for it, his companions urged him to take it, and he was about to do so, when he looked at his dog, and the animal licked his face, which settled the business; he shook his head, determined to keep it. I tried him afterwards with handkerchiefs of glaring colours, and other things, but it would not do, he would not part with his dog – I gave him, however, the axe and the handkerchief.
On Sunday the 16th of October at four o’clock in the afternoon, anchored in Sydney Cove, and on Monday made my report to His Excellency the Governor.
On my passing down to Moreton Bay I visited Newcastle and Port Macquarie. The difficulties which attend vessels entering into these places, particularly the latter, will prevent their ever becoming sea ports of consequence, as produce raised there must be sent to Sydney in small vessels for ulterior shipment in larger vessels for exportation. – Not so, however, with Moreton Bay – ships of the largest size can go in at the passage, which is called the Southern one by Point Lookout, where a light-house and signal station should be established, as also pilots, who would board vessels before they approached any danger. No stranger ought to go in without a pilot. The passage, as you approach the Southern end of Moreton Island, is marked by buoys on each side, and runs up from the entrance a course about NW. for nearly one mile between two sand banks. On the Southern one which is the Spit, the course changes to SSW. about a mile and half. On getting past Amity Point, there is no farther danger, being then in Moreton Bay, and still distant from the establishment on the Brisbane River about forty miles. Inside Amity Point is the most eligible spot for a future town for this fine sea port. There is abundance of most excellent fresh water and good depth of water for ships to lie close to the shore. The Bay abounds with excellent fish of every description, as well as wild fowl in great numbers. From no accurate survey having been taken or good examination of Moreton Bay, a great part of it is still unknown. There are many rivers, running into it, that no one has ever entered, consequently their capabilities and resources are yet to be learnt, though from what is known of the Brisbane, the Blind River and the Pumice Stone, they abound with the finest timber that has hitherto been found in New South Wales. It would be well, that the Government would direct their attention to this valuable article, as there can be no doubt it will become one of great export, as also of Colonial purposes for ship building, &c. &c. – A steam engine with sawing apparatus might be erected with advantage on Peel’s Island for converting the pine into deals and squaring other timber for the more convenient stowage and shipment; whilst it remains a penal settlement the prisoners would be well employed in falling this valuable timber, rafting it down the rivers to Peel’s Island, where it would be prepared for exportation. The pine, which is in such abundance at Moreton Bay, is well adapted for masts, spars of every denomination, as also being excellent for oars; all these would find ready sale in India as well as being a most valuable article in the colony.
As a proof, that this wood of the country is valuable, several ships in this last year have been principally loaded with it on their home voyage; and further, the merchants of Sydney are not inclined to give any information of their profits on this article.