Thursday, 16th September, 1824
Having made the necessary preparations for an absence of two weeks from the anchorage in the examination of the River Brisbane, we quitted our vessels in two boats, the exploring party being composed of Mr. Oxley as director of our expedition, Lieutenant Butler of the 40th Reg., myself, and 9 boatmen and servants.
From the anchorage, we proceeded south easterly with the flood tide in our favor, and about noon passed the points of entrance of the river, having, in making the entrance, which may be estimated at a breadth of two miles, tailed on a spit of sand projecting from a mangrovy point on the northern side of the mouth of this stream. Low mangrove islands occupy portions of the channel upwards, which although circumscribed in breadth thereby, has depths which we found to increase from 2 to 4 fathoms, the channel itself in parts free from these depressed muddy islets presenting a width exceeding 11 miles.
The boundary shores are low, invested by mangroves of the genera Avicennia, Aegiceras, Rhizophora (mucronata), and a Bruguiera, these maritime thickets being backed by low strips of forest land elevated only a few feet above the mangrove bank but sufficiently to prevent the salt water at the flood tide reaching the roots of those stunted specimens of the Eucalypti, whose tapering heads barely peeped over those of the mangroves.
At length, in about 5 miles from the entrance, forest ridges were perceived before us, at the extremity of a fine western reach, and as the mangroves on each side progressively became thinner as we advanced, admitting us to observe the back forest ground, the channel of this water, from that appearance of a simple recess from the bay, which the low depressed mangrovy shore from the entrance upwards gave it, began at this stage of our advance, to put on all the usual characteristics of a river, and that, too, of some importance. Hibiscus heterophyllus, here and there, decorate its banks, to which some singularly pretty green patches of grassy forest dip from the ridges observed in the background which are wooded chiefly with Eucalypti of blue gum and iron bark – the Callitris of the bay and large-leaved Tristania distinguishable at once by the dark line of their foliage, being also conspicuous on the acclivities of these higher grounds.
Upon reaching the elbow of this reach which is perceived to bend from the southward, we pulled in upon the left or north bank, on effecting our sixth mile (by estimation) and encamped on a grassy spot which by reason of the great luxuriance of vegetation, led us to conclude that fresh water would be found by examining a reedy swamp in the background which is discharged into the river by a creek on the northern angle of the reach. The drought, however, of the season which we have already observed to be of long continuance on the shores of Moreton Bay had dried up the marsh – a few natives’ wells in the neighborhood was the only discovery made, containing a little water of so brackish and turbid a quality as not to be under any circumstance drinkable. We therefore had to open one of the baracas with which we had furnished ourselves from the vessel for the necessary supply each person required. Some dark shaded brushes in the neighborhood engaged my attention until dusk and although I discovered no plants that had not been examined in the equinoctial portion of our continent during Captain King’s voyages, it was nevertheless gratifying to recognize my old friends a second time. Seaforthia elegans, Tetranthera ferruginea – Hellenia coerulea. Stadmannia – Cordyline cannaefolia, several of the Asclepiadeae, Apocyneae without fructification, Flagellaria climbing over the topmost branches of trees, Dioscorea – Plumbago zeylanica, and the scandent fern Lygodium were of the plants I was enabled to identify. I gathered flowering specimens of a tree of the Sapindeae and perhaps an Amyris bearing panicles of red flowers.
Numerous were the beaten paths of the wild aborigine. His several fireplaces showed me that this part of the river was numerously inhabited and an hour had not elapsed after my return to the encampment before four of these savages made their appearance, yelling from a surprise excited by the appearance of our encampment, and the several strange objects around them. After a merry but wild dance with our boat people in which they exhibited some extravagant gestures, they peaceably retired, taking with them from our fires each a lighted stick, not probably to illuminate their path to the distant bivouacking ground, but to rekindle their own fires, as they were not careful to preserve the flame.
Friday, 17th September, 1824
A slight fog. As we had rather improvidently consumed the whole of our supply of fresh water taken from the vessel, in the too sanguine reliance upon our discovery of an abundant store at the head of the creek near our encampment, some time was lost in fruitless search in the neighbourhood, when we were at length obliged to make a hasty meal without drink and be content to wait with patience until we should reach that part of the Brisbane (a few miles distant) at which Mr. Oxley had on his former excursion found the river perfectly fresh and sweet. The natives whose clamours we had heard at daybreak from their encampment distant probably not a half mile, suddenly made their appearance about us, just at the time we were all busily engaged re-stowing our boats. In an instant, these savages caught up our mountain barometer, a case of drawing tablets, etc., and ran off as fast as they could towards their encampment. Fortunately, however, the contents of a loaded gun being discharged at one of these Indians, recovered for us the whole of the stolen articles with the exception of a straw hat with which one remarkably nimble fellow in advance of the greater thief had got clear off. Our desire to proceed on our voyage induced us to resume it (about 8 a.m.) against the ebb tide which was running down with considerable strength. A noble reach extending south about 2 miles in length, by a breadth of a mile, with banks overhung with lofty volubilous and scandent plants called forth our admiration as we prosecuted our boat voyage – the respectable and regular width of the stream when considered in connection with a depth of 4, 5, and 6 fathoms at the last quarter of the ebb tide, fully impressing each of us with the great importance in a commercial and agricultural point of view at no distant day, by reason of its navigable capabilities, of the fine water which Mr. Oxley has, in its discovery, opened to us.
In this reach, the right or east bank was more particularly clothed with twining plants and a density of brushwood than the opposite or western shore where the open woodland, in forest ridges, was remarked. In the thick and shaded brushes, and towering above the highest trees, were observed the corymbose branched heads of a pine (as it was called) at the extremities of whose branchlets I perceived the young fruit, but as this curious tree exceeded 100 feet in height, I could not perceive whether it was capsular or coniform. Of that section of the genus Metrosideros with long detached filament – proposed by Mr. Brown to be separated from it by the name of Callistemon, one curious species was very conspicuous on the immediate banks, and a Crinum growing in the mud, that is daily covered by each flood tide, was in flower, and from its short peduncle, narrow leaves, and altogether smaller habit than C. pedunculatum, it was important to examine it; however, our boat was rapidly proceeding upwards, and as it was an object to prevent a loss of time, it was proposed to collect these fine subjects in our descent to the vessel. After winding up several short bends we at length in about 8 miles, entered a noble reach about 4 miles in length, the channel of the river still preserving the even breadth of half-a-mile, and bounded by dark, densely matted woods in which the new pine was particularly conspicuous. The young flood tide at length became felt as we passed up several new reaches, in alternately northerly and southerly trends. We were however much disappointed in not meeting with fresh water at the same stage on this stream as had been used last December by Mr. Oxley, thus serving us as a proof that the great drought that has so materially affected the colony, had also extended to these regions where probably no rain has fallen for many months and that consequently the body of fresh water in this river having become considerably diminished by a vast daily evaporation, the salt water (not meeting with a weight or force, to repel its pressure) had flowed up many miles beyond the spot marked on the chart of the river, made last December.
We continued our voyage westerly about 13 miles in which estimated distance we passed up some long and very handsome reaches of nearly an uniform width or very gradually and almost imperceptibly diminishing from 600 yards to half a mile; the banks being alternately brushy or densely overhung with a matted or tressed mass of vegetation and the open forest land, abundance of pine existing in the former.
Towards the close of the day, having passed another exceedingly fine length of the river, named the Mermaid Reach on the former visit, we began to look for a spot to rest ourselves on for the night; the banks, however, proved either so steep and inaccessible or low, soft and muddy as to render our attempts to gain a footing on the shore abortive; the water also was still brackish slightly, and none decidedly fresh was found in the gullies which fell into the river as far as they were examined by the people of one of our boats. Considering therefore that as the long prevalence of drought had caused a very great diminution of the fresh water in the river, allowing the tide to flow daily much higher than previously observed, and as the water at the present point of penetration on this river was (although salt) drinkable, Mr. Oxley proposed that as the people had laboured hard all day without fresh water, had become exceedingly fatigued, and the day on the close, to haul in at the first spot at all eligible and pitch the tents, which we accordingly did on the south or right bank, upon the high grassy ridge which forms the outer or upper bank of the river.
The country would seem about to assume another feature from this stage of the river upwards, the primary or upper banks are now frequently open and unencumbered by brushes and beyond, forest hills appear occasionally, the soil appears evidently improved not only at our present encampment where it was examined but also in other parts not landed on, but timbered with apple tree (Angophora lanceolata). The general direction of the river as traced during this day’s arduous exertion was from the south west, its breadth varying from a third of a mile to 250 yards. Hibiscus heterophyllus is very frequent on the immediate bank clothed with a profusion of its specious flowers. Pelican, black swan (at this period moulting, and hence easily run down by the boats) and ducks were very abundant in every reach of the river and of the two tail we shot several which gave all hands a feast variously prepared. Plumbago zeylanica L., a species of Sida, Ficus (aspera), Dioscorea bulbifera, Ipomoea pendula, Dolichos sp., a volubilous plant with membranous pods hanging from long peduncles, of which I gathered ripe seeds and a tree of the Urticeae evidently, 20 feet high allied to Antiaris of Mr. Brown, were generally subjects of the river bank and brushes in the neighbourhood of our tent.
Saturday, 18th September, 1824
The fog of the early morning having cleared off, we proceeded on our voyage at an early hour against the ebb tide, which however was not of a strength to impede our progress. Our first reach trended from the westward about two miles, bounded by banks alternately concealed by thick brushwood and open forest land, occasionally showing the prevailing rock formation which is quartzose with a breccia in which quartz is chiefly imbedded. Again, the river takes a bend from the southward, the banks become lower, which abound in Hibiscus heterophyllus and a Casuarina, the Crinum observed in the lower reaches of the river being here very general on the mud flats on each side which at the present low level of this water are partially dry.
It was at this particular stage of our ascent on the stream that it first definitely assumed the character of a fresh water river nearly uncontaminated by any admixture of salt water, although it is certainly influenced by the tide forcing back at the flood the fresh bodies, and occasioning a rise of about 4 feet; which height shown us on the rocks, being the same as at the vessel, afforded us the proof that the bed of the river is continued horizontal and it is equally worthy of remark that whatever this stream may eventually prove to be, its banks have not yet offered us any proof of its being a mountain stream, having a near rise or origin but rather that it flows quietly from a level or very slightly declining country at a slow rate not sufficient to carry off the loose vegetation observed growing at some distance from its banks.
In further proof of the inactive disposition of this stream (at least at the present season), I could not but notice the quiet repose on the surface of certain acquatics usually found in those of our colonial fresh waters not liable to frequent or much agitation viz. Potamogeton natans, Triglochin procerum, Vallisneria spiralis, Damasonium ovalifolium. Continuing upwards southerly about 5 miles, we reached the extreme point of the river to which Mr. Oxley had, on the former occasion, extended his research when having landed on the right or eastern bank, the tents were pitched for the day and I accompanied Mr. Oxley to the highest point of a ridge of forest land near our encampment to take bearings of the country to the southward and westward of us. Upon ascending this ridge which immediately overhangs the river, we found we were not sufficiently elevated to overlook the timbered lands around us. We however reached a slight rise of the back hills and thence Mr. Oxley took a few bearings that might prove useful to him in the survey.
In the progress of the day, I had an opportunity of landing on a brushy bank of the river and on entering a dark wood of great density and novel appearance, I gathered the following plants, the features of the vegetation generally being tropical.
Capparis sp. …
Asclepiadeae. Gymnema sp? – Secamone sp.
Amaranthaceae. Pentandria, a shrubby plant allied to Deeringia and Lestibudesia.
Sida sp.
Dioecia. a broad leaved shrub (frequent) flowers unexpanded anthers 6-8. Capparis sp. (without fructification) spines erect; branches flexuose, leaves oval and obtuse.
Parsonsia velutina Br. –
Carissa ovata Br. very frequent within the Tropic never seen with fructification.
Alyxia ruscifolia Br. without fructification.
Acacia sp. leaves elliptically lanceolate alternately pinnate, peduncle elongated flowers in an open capitulum. A tree 25 feet high.
Tilliaceae. A genus allied to Apeiba and Sloanea. … a tree of moderate height and spreading habit.
Urticeae. Acalypha sp. – Clematis stenosepala. Br. a specimen of female flowers.
Several other plants were also observed in the recesses of these forests, but without fructification, and therefore their genera could alone be presumed from their respective habits viz. –
Grewia sp. leaves elliptical 3-nerved – Acanthus ebracteatus – A slender tree of the Proteaceae like some Equinoctial Grevilleae, leaves pinnatifid.
Rubiaceae. Cephaelis or Psychotria — Verbenaceae. a square stalked few leaved shrubby plant, of which another specimen was gathered in the Interior in 1817, fruit a dry, orange small drupe.
Hiraea alata [sic] of King’s Voyage – Zanthoxyloides – a tree 12-16 feet high- stem thorny – wood hard and yellow.
In these interesting shades I was forcibly struck with the rambling habit of Hoya carnosa which had (with a Dolichos) reached the summits of the loftiest trees, of which we noticed several distinct kinds, producing timbers of large dimensions which ere long will be found of importance to the young colony just planted on the shores of Moreton Bay. Of the several timbers of these forests investing this interesting river, only two can be here spoken of, exclusive of the pine, which although its fruit has not yet been examined, it is nevertheless probable, will prove to be an Araucaria.
The first of these timbers is Flindersia of Mr. Brown who discovered it on the shores of Broad Sound just within the tropic where he observed it to rise to a moderately size tree, producing flowers and fruit in the month of September. Notwithstanding the gigantic stature of Flindersia on this river (the specimen cut down from which I had gathered flowering specimens measuring about 100 feet), it nevertheless did not appear to be specifically distinct from Flindersia australis as described by that eminent botanist above referred to. The second timber is of a genus of Rhamneae allied to Ceanothus, of which there is a species frequent on the sea coasts of the colony of Port Jackson, whose flowers I have not yet seen, the fruit is trilocular resting on a persistent calyx, the particular species of this river is of straight growth, from 60-80 feet in height, and whose timber is of a close compact grain. Of parasitical Orchideae I remarked Cymbidium suave and canaliculatum of Mr. Brown on the Eucalypts skirting these shaded woods, within which on the timber were filiformed leaved plants, probably Dendrobium teretifolium, with an unpublished plant, growing in large mattes, producing a single lanceolate leaf to each bulb.
Sunday, 19th September, 1824
Foggy as usual. As the river upwards was perfectly unknown, some alterations in the storage of the boats became necessary to afford Mr. Oxley as much room in the larger or whale boat and with a view towards enabling him to re-commence and carry on his survey from the point at which he had left off last December, without any interruption that might arise from our continuance in the same boat with him as we had done during our passage to this resting spot.
Mr. Butler and myself quitted the whale boat for the smaller or jolly boat. About 10 o’clock, it being about the top of high water, we launched forth upon a new voyage of examination with much expectation of a long course, and distant inland origin of the stream, now engaging our serious attentions. Passing up a western reach about 250 yards wide, and whose lower or secondary banks were clothed with Hibiscus heterophyllus, the several lengths whose waters were constantly fresh wind from the northwest and occasionally expand to 300 yards, the almost stagnant stillness of the river whose surface was covered with pond weeds of Potamogeton, Triglochin, Damasonium, and Vallisneria giving it the appearance of a spacious fish pond or canal, showing moreover that no floods had taken place for a considerable period. The river continued to bend from the westward (northwest and southwest).
As also to preserve a fine open width of 350-400 yards having alternately brushy secondary banks and open forest land, clothed in many instances with that indication of good soil, the Angophora or apple tree.
Shoal water and a gravelly bottom were observed in the centre of the reach, these however we passed by a deep water channel without suffering ourselves to receive an ill impression of our river. However, upon ascending about 4 miles of our morning’s advance, we passed a dry gravelly bank evidently the deposit of floods and on bending north entered a beautiful reach extending an estimated distance of 2 miles, having a range of forest hills at its head or upper extremity, the breadth of the river at this part being expanded to 400 yards, its lower bank rising gradually to an interesting back forest country appearing to furnish abundance of grass and heavy Eucalyptine timber, these particular parts occupied by the usual density of brush, having the new pine and a Ficus (rubiginosa) of vast magnitude.
At length a branch 150 yards wide runs into the river from about west being probably the channel by which the waters of neighboring rising country to the southwest are conveyed to the river. Pursuing the main trunk northerly, we passed a low sandy island, about a mile in length and occupying the centre of the channel, a sufficient depth of water to float our boats being found under the left bank. Upon passing this island, which is clothed with the vegetation of the neighboring banks, the breadth of the river is immediately perceived to contract to 150 yards, and on the channel taking a bend from the northwest, several sandbanks appeared and in one spot some naked rocks extend from the right bank half the distance across the river which after winding from the south, southeast to east in the space of a mile and varying in breadth from 150 to 250 yards, we were brought to a low point proceeding from the right bank, over which, when the river is flooded, heavy and impetuous torrents have evidently passed, leaving a considerable deposit of sand and pebbles which had formed a short distance above, an extensive bank, 20 feet high, occupying this of the channel, and thus confining the stream which was contracted to 50 yards and very shoal, to flow over a lower bed under the left bank.
On this gravel bank we pitched our tents, our boat people being exhausted with the day’s exertion, ourselves being much disappointed in our hopes of this river, by these indications of an origin by no means distant. Upon laying down on the chart our day’s progress, we found that although we had made a diversion course of about 11 miles, our direct route westerly was not above 6 miles. The right bank of the river, opposite to our encampment being 70-80 feet high and apparently likely to afford us a view of the country to the westward, I ascended it in company with Mr. Oxley but had again to regret that a series of wooded ridges of equal and at some points of bearing of higher elevation, prevented our sight being extended far. We, however, could perceive a very distant blue range bearing southwest by south and from its appearance there can be no doubt of much lofty land being situated in the country to the westward of Mt. Warning (an eminence on the coast) especially as their bearings intersected the parallel of that remarkable landmark to the mariner at a distance of about a degree of longitude to the westward.
Of the few plants gathered in this day’s advance, a species of Aeschynomene related to A. picta Cav. Ic. very general on the gravel bank, afforded me seeds. A species of Polygonum, an Indigofera gathered formerly within the tropic and an Acacia with tortuous pods scarcely distinct from the species gathered on Sims’ Island.
The pebbles that have been brought down and deposited by heavy floods in this part of the river, of which our encamping ground was entirely formed, were chiefly of quartz, jasper and agate but no portions of calcareous rock were discovered to infer that any limestone formation exists in the distant western mountainous regions whence torrents in wet seasons had brought them.
Monday, 20th September, 1824
Continuing our voyage, we had not advanced a mile in a southwest direction when the channel, occasionally becoming contracted to 60 yards, trended. We arrived at another extensive bank of sand and gravel over which the river in great floods impetuously sweeps, its marks on the outer bank furnishing us with the proofs of its being at those periods 500 yards wide.
In a walk I took across the bank to a continuation of the river, I noticed a number of plants most interesting to me, growing in the gravel, some of which were advancing to a flowering state. They were Kennedia rubicunda, the acacia above referred to, which is also frequent on the main banks bearing ripe seeds. Two species of Polygonum already collected – Croton quadripartitum [sic] – a species of Hovea with large leaves – Ficus aspera – Commelina cyanea and the Aeschynomene before remarked.
On reaching the opposite margin of this bank, I again joined the boat which had traced the river round the western side of this siliceous deposition by a very narrow channel not exceeding 50 yards in width, from which, however, it again widens to about 100 yards, having on its western shore a large mass of rock which, from its figure and apparently curious structure, induced me again to land to examine it, a depth of water exceeding 5 fathoms being sounded off it. This rocky mass was about 25 feet high, of vertical position and sub-cubical form, its summit being accessible from the back part, by the aid of some detached fragments of the same formation. It was of a compact siliceous or flinty structure, containing a portion of iron, its front (to the river) which was singularly smooth and glossy, being deeply tinted by its oxidation.
The course of this progressively diminishing river continued to bend from the southward and westward a short distance from the rock when it at once shoals to a bare sufficiency to float our boats which at length were stopped by a rapid of gravel 40 yards wide, obliging us to quit our seats to allow our people to drag them over to a continuation of the channel which, upon being pursued about half a mile, brought us to a more considerable rapid 400 yards in extent, a large shelf of sand and gravel being on its eastern side.
Totally unwilling to suffer the further examination of the river to be prevented, Mr. Oxley, on ascertaining that a channel of water deep enough to float us existed on the opposite or southwestern extreme, directed the people to drag the boats, on being partially unladen, over this fall. But as this laborious operation would occupy 3 or 4 hours, the worthy director proposed to ascend to the summit of a very steep range of hills overhanging the river, with a view to observe the nature and appearance of the country to the westward from its apparently commanding higher points. A broken hilly undulated tract of land, extended as far as the eye could perceive, occasionally intersected by loftier ridges was observed to the westward. An elevated range lying north and south and bearing from us west by south about 6 miles, appearing covered with the pine of the river; whilst to the northward a series of lofty steep forest ridges lying east and west appeared. Smokes, the indications of natives, rising from the interjacent valleys or lower grounds. From the point on which we stood, the river was perceived to trend from the northward and westward with apparently a clear although very contracted channel. Ironbark (of the genus Eucalyptus) was timber of the forest land around, in which I remarked very generally Jacksonia scoparia, with Pultenaea linophylla. A tall species of Daviesia allied to D. squarrosa however rewarded me for the labor of climbing this otherwise to me uninteresting eminence.
About sunset our people had hauled the boats over the rapid to a continuation of the river where the depth of water varied from 3 to 6 and 9 feet. Whereupon pulling a quarter of a mile, we hauled in on the margin of another body of torrent-gravel and pitched the tents, our attendants being exceedingly exhausted with the labors of the day; it being now determined to trace the river upward on foot rather than proceed further with the boats before it was ascertained that there is a depth of water sufficient to float them.
The rock of this part of the interior is a sandstone, a pudding stone base as is shown in the steep bank of the river opposite to our encampment, which rises to the height of 200 feet, in the face of which it was remarked the stratum dipped east by south, 15 degrees.
Upon examining the channel before us, it was immediately discovered to be choked up by fallen and drifted timber of large dimension, the trunks of several of the trees extending from bank to bank which there, were 40 yards apart and it was found that these serious obstacles in the way of our further advance by boats, could not possibly be removed by our saws, etc. All further observations on this river could alone be made on foot. Hibiscus heterophyllus continues with us on either bank with the new Metrosideros and in the small brushes with which this part of the river is decorated, Ipomoea pendula, Convolvulus sepium, and Passiflora herbertiana bearing fruit, are very conspicuous.
Tuesday, 21st September, 1824
Mr. Oxley, having determined upon a further examination of the river on foot, I most gladly joined him in the day’s excursion, accompanied by our comrade in research, Lt. Butler.
Upon crossing this very reduced stream by the aid of a fallen tree, we traced it on its right bank about 2 miles in a westerly direction, the boundary lands on each side being lofty forest hills which occasionally approach and overhang the river, in the channel of which at scarcely the distance of a half mile from our tents were a ledge of rocks which extending from bank to bank and within a short space of a second formidable barrier, at once closed all further enquiry of the course and origin of this interesting water by our boats, the premature termination of whose navigation had so exceedingly frustrated every hope that had been sanguinely entertained of it. Perceiving we were not above 5 miles (by estimation) from the pine range seen yesterday, from whose summit it was presumed we should be able to make some further observations on the Interior, itself bounding our present view to the Westward, we proceeded direct over an undulated forest country, constituting generally fine dry sheep pasture, grooved by rather deep watercourses dipping to the river, at this particular season, for the most part dry.
In three miles of this description of country, we again intersected the river which from its Western reach had taken a bend to the southward and as we were descending to its bed, our attention was arrested by the voice of a solitary aborigine, almost in the decline of life, who in order to enjoy it to its last glimmer, was by the aid of his fish-gig vigilantly looking out for such a meal as the inhabitants of the shallow weedy pools of the river would afford him. He had assuredly never seen a white face before, but the instant his eye caught ours, an open frankness of countenance showed us his harmless disposition and we suffered not a moment to elapse before we fully convinced him by signs of our honest intention towards him.
The poor savage immediately joined us and learning we were about to cross the river in order to proceed to the Pine Ranges which we then discovered were not so near us as we had calculated, he forded the stream with us, directing us to the point, by which (it should seem) he had from period to period ascended the opposite bank to the elevated but level forest land extending to another bend of the River, which curved beneath to Pine Range to which we were destined.
Observing this native had a basket, probably of his own manufacture, hanging from his shoulder, in which he had just deposited a fish, recently speared, I made signs for permission to examine it, when on drawing it out by the tail, it was with surprise and satisfaction both Mr. Oxley and myself immediately recognized in it the species of fish, heretofore only known to us as an inhabitant of our Western waters or those streams that we have hitherto considered as ending in Internal Marshes and which at Bathurst in the parallel of our colony is commonly called cod, being throughout the Summer months caught in the Macquarie that waters those downs. We have not been mistaken in the Fish which we have now found to be an inhabitant in an eastern water within 30 miles of that point of the Brisbane to which that of the Ocean flows, for we examined it critically, particularly as to the radii of the dorsal fin, the relative position of the pectoral and ventral fins, together with the structure of head and gill-covers.
However great the disappointment of our Hopes of this River, particularly in the limits of its navigable capabilities, by the existence of those extensive beds of gravelly deposits to which we have adverted and which had, in my mind, induced the partial conclusion of a mountainous source by no means distant, rather than a river from distant internal muddy morasses, the fact nevertheless (accidentally acquired) of the fish of those marshes which receive our Western waters, existing in this river would feign indeed induce us to conceive that although we have (from some high points on this river) partially observed lofty western points at a Distance from us inland, which we had been disposed to consider as parts of a main dividing range, giving two directions, as in the parallel of our mother colony, to the waters that rise in it, it is, nevertheless, probable that no such Barrier exists in the latitude of 27° to prevent the discharge of these Waters (which we have hitherto designated Western) on the East coast by this great channel although it may be by a course throughout its various meanderings of not less than 1,000 miles.
Founded as this idea is on the single solitary fact of the discovery of the Western “cod” in this river, it has given us a determination to make (on another day) an excursion inland to the most lofty point Westerly whence the country may be overseen on all sides.
Traversing about 2 miles of grassy forest land Westerly, we again intersected a bend of the River, which had made a curve from the Northward and having forded it, immediately entered some thick brushes at the base of the pine range, our Native friend having left us by striking off to the S.W. probably to his encampment, the density of the bush, as we ascended it being too difficult to him, carrying as he did, his long spears on his shoulder.
The brushes of the acclivities of this range which we found exceedingly gradual, were of those plants chiefly of tropical aspect and of which I have already made some slight mention, those of more frequent occurrence being a small leaved Capparis, Carissa ovata, Maba laurina, Clerodendrum flori- bundum-Urtica-allied to Antiaris.
As we penetrated upwards it was with admiration, on passing through a stupendous Forest, we beheld Timbers of stately growth but of unknown Genera, without flowers or fruit, associated with the arborescent Flindersia whose five cleft echinated capsules of the last year were thickly observed on the ground, on whose trunk I observed a magnificent Acrostichum as large as A. alcicorne but as a species perfectly distinct. It may be thus characterized: A. grande etc.
Hitherto in our examination of this river, we have been only gratified with a distant view of the pine; immediately we approached one of magnificent stature, the monarch of these woods. It was a healthy well-grown tree, exceeding 120 feet in height with a trunk 3.6 diam., clear of branches exceeding 80 feet. It was totally impossible not to halt a few moments to admire this noble tree which had all the habits of ramification of the Araucaria braziliensis. I perceived it bore its young Cones at the extremities of the topmost branchlets, which of course were perfectly beyond my reach; however a branch that had been broken off by the Wind, was found on the ground, bearing several green fruit enabling me to satisfy myself that the tree was of the Genus Araucaria.
As we plodded onwards, imperceptibly ascending through a matted difficult thicket of underwood beneath Araucariae, several of whose trunks measured 10 feet circumference at four feet from the base, I was not a little surprised to observe a solitary elliptical nerved leaf upon a long foot stalk rising from the ground, which on digging up the root, I discovered to be bulbous and hence inducing me to consider it a species of Calostemma and perhaps “album” of Mr. Brown, as the plant of Cairncross Island to which it is closely allied (at least as far as habit is to be consulted) has proved to be a species of Pancratium. Upon discovering on reaching the highest point of this pine ridge, that in consequence of the stupendous growth of the trees and general density of the brushes, no view around could be obtained, we descended the Ridge, re-forded the river and retraced our steps back to the Encampment which however we did not reach until Sunset.
Wednesday, 22nd September, 1824
Whilst Mr. Oxley, accompanied by Mr. Butler, was absent from the tents on a walk to a lofty forest hill bearing north, I was diligently engaged in re-papering my green plants and examining others that were prepared.
Upon the return of these gentlemen in the afternoon, I learnt that they had a most extensive prospect of the surrounding country, particularly to the southward and westward. From the disposition of the lateral western ranges of Mt. Warning, which become lower and soften down towards an apparently moderate internal western country where no defined dividing range appeared to exist, the conclusion was that the Brisbane River will eventually prove to be a distant western water of remote origin, and not rising chiefly in a mountainous region. After taking a series of valuable bearings, they returned and proposed a two-day tour of advance to the westward before our return to the bay.
Thursday, 23rd September, 1824
From the observations made yesterday from the summit of a steep hill named Belle Vue Mount, situated North about 2 miles from the alluvial bank of our encampment, in regard to the direction of the higher ranges of hills, particularly those that diverge laterally to the Westward from the collections of mountainous land of the Mt. Warning range which it has been presumed might extend inland, and by uniting with other lofty lands stretching from the Northward of us towards the South might form a body of mountains sufficiently elevated to constitute a dividing range of the waters, it was proposed to make a tour of two days to the Westward with a view of observing from some commanding points within the range of a long day’s march, the true structure and face of the country bearing between N.W. and S.W. in order that some opinion may be formed of the probable point whence this river flows, the presumed distance of its source, or whether or not, it may be inferred from circumstances already existing, when supported by the results of our further inquiries that the Brisbane may be an outlet from the Marshes that receive the Macquarie, Castlereagh,etc., etc.
Taking two days’ provisions with us, attended by three of our boat people, I accompanied Mr. Oxley to Bellvue Mount which lying directly in our further line of route westerly, we ascended to the summit measuring barometrically 530 feet above the bed of the River but I had to regret the lowering aspect of the morning and the general haze that hung over the Country, (so clearly seen by Mr. Oxley yesterday) obscured for the most part our view around. (I could however perceive a low moderately hilly tract of land at South and distant about 25 miles). Taking therefore simply the bearing of a distant peaked wooded Mount (at N.W.N.) which appeared a lofty point whence some important bearings could be taken, we proceeded forward, observing to keep such ridges in the undulated Country we traversed, as tended towards the point to which our course was directed, and avoiding a descent to the Vallies which were deep sharp and of difficult acclivity, again. About an hour before Sunset we reached the base of this elevated mount round which we again found the river winding from the Westward, and having refreshed ourselves, and fixed on the spot to pass the night, we climbed its very steep acclivity and from its summit had a most extensive view of the country around us, more particularly to the Westward where the diffusion of light, occasioned by the rays of the setting sun enabled us to extend our observations.
At a distance of eight miles due west from us, a pine ridge of moderate elevation extended several miles in a North and Southerly direction, to the westward of which the actual structure of the country, although it could not be fully ascertained by actual observation, it was nevertheless satisfactorily evident to each of us that it was either low and marshy or a level forest without a hill, as the bold lateral Southern ranges which (we have already remarked) diverge Westerly from those of Mount Warning on the coast, were observed with some low ridges, stretching from the country to the Northward of our position, progressively to dip towards the Western lands before us and at length to soften down to their level, whence the river bending round the foot of the hill on which we stood was observed to proceed. I would have rejoiced to have extended our journey another day to the Western pine range before us, as such observations could doubtless be made from its higher points, on the actual face of the Interior beyond it as would have enabled us to have arrived at more satisfactory conclusions in respect to the river and how far it may be considered as having a connection with our internal marshes, – the state, however, of Mr. Oxley’s health not permitting to advance so far prevented it.
At this point then, (whose Geographical position is about 27°30′ South Lat. and probably under the Meridian of 152°30 East) closed our Examination of this River, and although we have not been enabled to determine whence it derives its source, we have at least acquired this knowledge of the Geological structure of the Interior of the Country in the parallels of 27° and 28° – that mountainous lands similar to those leading Ranges of our present Colony which not only constitute a formidable Boundary to the lands on our Eastern shore there within its limit, but separate the Eastern from the Western Waters, do not exist in the Interior of the Country from Moreton Bay but that from its moderate structure, and the fact of the fish of the Macquarie and other western waters being found in the Brisbane, there can be no doubt of its communication with some distant Internal streams, although not perhaps with the Marshes of the Macquarie, Castlereagh etc. seen by Mr. Oxley in 1818, from which this river at the western point of our penetration on it, is distant at least 300 miles. Finally as opposed to the Idea of its being an Outlet from our Internal Marshes whose waters in Seasons of their Overflow, doubtless carry with them portions of the mud of their extensive Bed which would certainly form a considerable deposit in the Channel of any river rising from them, and by which they could be disembogued on sea coasts, I need only advert to the extensive Banks of alluvial sand and gravel, with which the Channel of the Brisbane is alone occupied which at least would go to prove that if it does not altogether rise in the neighbouring highlands, its leading or principal tributary branches originate in mountains and most probably in those elevated Ranges observed to the Southward which are connected with the lofty points of Mount Warning.
Friday, 24th September, 1824
The chill of the early morning we experienced rather bracing, exposed as we were to its effects although somewhat sheltered from the humidity of the dews that had fallen very heavily during the last night, by the Hut of Boughs which our people during the period of our absence on the Pine Mount, had ingeniously constructed the last evening.
I rose at Daybreak to examine the shaded woods in the neighbourhood in which, however, I found most of the plants observed in similar umbrageous forests bounding the lower reaches of the River. The Trees that characterize the scenery are of the Araucaria or Pine, Flindersia australis and a very large Ficus which appeared undescribed and therefore may be distinguished by the following characters…
The plants of the Capparideae observed in the thick woods of the River near the sea, presented in these forests the most formidable thickets I have ever encountered, rendered perfectly impervious by reason of the density of their growth and the Aculeae with which these plants are furnished. To the several plants of which I have made some mention as forming portions of the characteristic vegetation of this parallel of Latitude, I would now add Santalum venosum, Acacia scandens, a species of Grewia, Ehretia saligna and a strong thorned tree seemingly Zanthoxylum which however, with the others, were without fructification at this particular season.
On the skirts of these Forests in situations open to the sun and air, I observed Melia azedarach and young plants of the Red Cedar of our Colony and I gathered specimens in fruit of a spreading Tree with pinnated leaves, having much the habit of Trichilia but producing Legumini from capsules, enclosing large green seeds of the size of a chestnut.
Such has been the effects of the long protracted droughts of the year that vegetation appears almost wholly in a state of inactivity, for of the evidently great diversity of Species that constitute these forests, few or none have been at this season detected in any state of fructification, and notwithstanding the close shade of these woods, so favourable to the existence of Filices etc., a continuance of dry blighting atmosphere appeared to have hardened the surface of the thirsty soil and generally destroyed such small Ferns and Mosses which in seasons of regular moisture, flourish beneath such an umbrage.
Of the large and beautiful Acrostichum allied to A. alcicorne, I gathered duplicate specimens and with no small pleasure I discovered two very distinct plants of parasitical Orchideae of probably the Genera Cymbidium or Dendrobium but not evidently of species enumerated by Mr. Brown in his invaluable Prodromus,
Of each of these very interesting plants I collected roots from the trees on which they grew for transmission with others of this Family growing in the Colony, to His Majesty’s Gardens; one species being remarkable for its elliptical undulated leaves upon a square club shaped stalk growing from matted fibrous roots – the other producing long fusiform flag-like leaves from an elliptical flattened bulb-like stem.
About 9 o’clock I returned to Mr. Oxley who I joined at breakfast and then we all set out on our journey back to our Encampment pursuing a more direct and less hilly route than that of yesterday.
The proofs of a long protracted dry season were abundant throughout the fine grazing lands we traversed, for of the many water courses from the Hills which were deeply grooved and in many places fully sheltered from the rays of the sun, only one was intersected by us that was not dry, this now forming a chain of deep pools in a perfect state of stagnancy.
About 3 p.m. we returned to our encampment where we found Mr. Butler had been absent from the tents since dawn of day – he, however, relieved our anxieties for his safety by making his appearance about dusk, having made a Tour in the forest country remote from the River, where he had been indefatigable with his gun. He had shot several of the Bronze- winged Pigeon (Columba chalcoptera) and a few male specimens of the Regent bird, a species of Turdus, exactly that of Hunter’s River and Port Macquarie.
Saturday, 25th September, 1824
About 9 o’clock we broke up our encampment and began our voyage downwards towards the bay, having done as much in the examination of the river and gathered as many facts relative to it, as existing circumstances would admit.
In the various parts between the rapids, we observed a fish to glide quickly past our boats, which we fondly hoped would be found to be the cod seen higher up the River and of which Mr. Oxley was exceedingly anxious to obtain a specimen. However its depressed head and shoulders, its tapering form, added to its manner of swimming proved it immediately to us to be a species of squalus or shark of which several that were shot at exceeded 3 feet in length. The only difficulty existing in our minds was to conceive how a fish, properly the inhabitant of the ocean could live also in waters presumably fresh.
Having passed the narrows, we remarked at a clear, open part on the right bank a small fire round which were seated some natives, consisting of a man, some women and children, forming in the whole, a group of six persons. A scarcity of food in the forest land above the outer bank which they had fired to dislodge the kangaroos of the brushwood, had driven these miserable Beings to seek an aliment in the productions of the river, I refer not to its fish, but to certain long whitish worms which engender and exist in sunken logs of timber that after many years immersion, becoming in part decomposed is easily perforated by these worms who inhabit the excavations they thus make. These indians had made their little fire, and having collected together a quantity of this decayed wood, were observed by us, very industriously engaged in breaking it up, to extract the worms within.
The instant we appeared on the stream, they precipitately retreated into the brush, leaving the whole of the little paraphernalia, economical utensils etc. behind them. We landed and found several stone headed hatchets, some spears and a basket or two of a plant of the restiaceae. The consideration of the great labour of these people in preparing these hatchets before they can possibly be of use to them, would not suffer us to take possession of one of them and finding that all our calls to induce these people to return and join us were unavailing, we resumed our voyage, trusting that our having, in no wise, disturbed their little arrangements or taken their weapons, would inspire these savages with just feelings of our generosity and good intentions towards them.
About 5 p.m. we reached that part of the river into which the western branch falls, whereupon finding a good landing on the opposite or eastern bank, we pitched our tents (for the day) – the flood tide being set up strong
against us.
As I had an hour before me of daylight, I employed it in a patch of shaded forest, immediately on the river’s bank near our encampment, when I gathered the following specimens.
Capparis sp….
Rubiaceae Genipa sp. …
Pittosporeae … a shrub of larger growth than the plant of our colony – Cordyline cannaefolia duplicate specimens. The Acrostichum grande and Cymbidium canaliculatum of Mr. Brown grew on the timber trees on the margin of these woods, the latter showing a disposition to flower, but as no other plants of the many curious shrubs of these shaded situations bore either description of fructification, I was obliged to content myself with imperfect leaf specimens of the more remarkable, and then returned to our tents.
Sunday, 26th September, 1824
Proceeding on our Voyage downwards, we continued until we arrived at the particular reach on whose left bank I had in our ascent, landed and in whose thickets I had discovered the Flindersia. At this particular spot, it was proposed we should again land, not only to cut small logs of a few of the Timbers of these forests but also obtain specimens of such as were at the season, bearing flowers or fruit.
Besides these in an abundant flowering state, of Flindersia, I furnished myself with specimens in young fruit, of a large and heavy Timber tree, probably of the Rhamneae and related to Ceanothus together with those of the pine bearing young cones from which I am enabled to draw character to shew that this tree is specifically distinct from Araucaria excelsa or Norfolk Pine although its habit of growth is very different from that assumed by the tree at its insulated indigenous spot, or shewn in those that have been imported to our colony. This difference of habit in the pine of this river consists in its uppermost branches being generally so disposed as to form by their unequal lengths, a flat or even surface at the summit in shape like that description of Inflorescence called a Corymb.
A very remarkable shrub of large growth seemingly of the genus Zanthoxylum with aculeated stem, yellowish wood and pinnated leaves, was observed in these shaded woods. I could not discover any one of the specimens of this remarkable plant bearing either flowers or fruit at this particular season.
Of the Parasitical I collected from the top-most branches of one of the Trees that were felled for the purpose of obtaining specimens of its Timbers, tufts of a plant of the Epidendra not enumerated amongst the species of Cymbidium or Dendrobium of this Continent in Mr. Brown’s valuable work, as also further flowering specimens of the magnificent new Acrostichum, sparingly dispersed in these woods.
As soon as specimens (in small logs) of these timbers were cut and placed in the Boats, we again quitted the shore, Mr. Oxley being anxious to profit by the strength of the tide, which had already begun to ebb. Upon proceeding down the River however about 2 miles, heavy clouds were perceived gathering from the Northward, indication of an approaching storm, it was therefore deemed advisable to land and encamp, and the tents had scarcely been pitched an hour, before the thunderstorm in its passage over us to the Southward, drenched us with a copious rain which proved most serviceable to the parched lands around that had not apparently imbibed much moisture from the clouds for many weeks.
Monday, 27th September, 1824
The flood tide had made before we quitted our Encamping Ground. We had therefore to pull down against its influence until about 2 p.m. when we fortunately had it, together with an occasional puff of westerly breeze, in some of the Reaches in our favour. About 4 p.m. we reached the points of Entrance of this River and as the people had laboured hard during the forenoon in descending to the Bay, we landed upon a low island to give them an opportunity of preparing a meal, previous to our return to the vessel, whose anchorage was distanced about 7 miles.
This island which is elevated only a few feet above the upper marks of ordinary tides, is clothed with Rhizophoreae and Avicennia156 of large growth and is evidently overflowed in the periods of the full and change of the Moon, when its centre, which is somewhat lower than the marginal beaches is rendered a perfect saltmarsh, the plants of which were chiefly of Salsola macrophylla, Salicornia indica, a Tetragonia common on the shores of our Colony with Atriplex halimus which however rather occupied the drier shores of the island where the Natives had, at a period rather recent, been enjoying themselves with a regalement of shell fish near the spot of our landing, where huts of very neat construction and ample internal capability were standing, which gave us proof of their superior manner of building retreats from the Weather, over their Countrymen in the Mother Colony. Upon a curved framework of sapling wands crossed and secured at the several points of intersection by strips of Flagellaria indica, sheets of paper- like bark of some Melaleuca carefully laid in ample thicknesses, fully to these thatched roofs being exclude the heaviest rains from the Interior externally secured by the stems of the Flagellaria whose suppleness is admirably adapted to all purposes where abrupt bends are required. The area of each appeared fully sufficient to afford accommodation to 6 individuals.
Such was the violence of the breezes in the evening from seaward, that upon leaving this island, we were labouring until 10 o’clock at night before we reached the anchorage and not before a part of my baggage, including some of my specimens of plants, had suffered injury from the salt sprays which continually broke over our Boats. The Master of the Vessel, accompanied by the Assistant Surveyor were absent in the examination of the supposed shoal passage to Sea between the south extreme of Moreton Island and Point Lookout of Captain Flinders, agreeably to Mr. Oxley’s directions to them, previous to our departure on the river excursion, and were not expected to return before the close of the month. We were informed to our surprize, that in the thunderstorm of yesterday afternoon, which was particularly felt at the anchorage, the vessel drove, in consequence of the foulness of the ground, and insufficiency of weight of the anchor, and was alone prevented from being drifted on shore by letting go one of a larger size which was the 3rd down. During the squall, the sea that is described to have got up with the wind from the N.E. was that of a very heavy swell which constantly broke over the brig’s forecastle, showing us that notwithstanding the shelter of the Bay by Moreton Island, such is the expanse of water within, that a sea is raised by breezes from the N.E. and S.E. equal to that to which an open roadstead is subjected, rendering it unsafe for vessels to remain long at anchor, but after the discharge of their respective cargoes, to remove.